1UZFE/2UZFE into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (U.S.)

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
OK, I received a Tundra torque converter today. I compared it to the LS400 TC. While there is a slight difference dimensionally, the big diffference is in the weight. Even with some ATF left in the LS400 TC (and virtually none in the Tundra TC), the Tundra TC weighs at least 1/3 more. (Sorry, no scale handy). The top half of the two TC's are virtually identical, the difference lies on the driveplate side of the TC. The Tundra TC measures roughly 12" diameter, while the LS400 TC is roughly 11 3/8".

tundra%20vs%20ls400%20tc%20(Medium).jpg

So, the added size and weight should help dissipate the heat associated with the auto trans/crawlers (with adequate coolers installed of course)
 
Spent 5 hours at the shop tonight. I'm bushed!

Got a good amount done though.

Pulled the trans fluid cooler
Pulled the crossmember
Finished uphooking everything in the engine bay (balance of the AC piping and power steering hoses)

Then I ran into a problem... I can't get any of my damn driveshaft bolts out. I tried everything. I'm going to pickup a set of wobble impact sockets so I can use my impact wrench on those stubborn buggers. Any words of wisdom (other than heat..)

When I ran into this issue, I turned my attention to 1UZ. Time to start tearing into it. Important thing to note: Even if the folks you get the engine from say they drained all the fluids, don't believe it. I flipped mine over and proceded to dump a bunch of coolant on the floor. Then I discovered that my mounting of the engine to the stand was far from balanced - when I flipped it, it about threw me into the air (no small feat!). I found that I was unable to flip it back over, so then I push the engine across the shop to where the chain hoist is. Hook it to the engine and start hoistin'. Phew!

So, then I tear into the engine.

I got the TB and top intake plenum off, then I stripped the existing harness off. I have a couple of sensors to unhook, but for the most part, I'm ready to install the new harness. Here's a few pics of the strippage:

1uz%20teardown%20001%20(Medium).jpg

1uz%20teardown%20005%20(Medium).jpg

1uz%20teardown%20007%20(Medium).jpg

1uz%20teardown%20010%20(Medium).jpg
 
1uz%20teardown%20012%20(Medium).jpg

Does this look like a bad injector or fuel rail connection? I have two injectors that look the same.

1uz%20teardown%20016%20(Medium).jpg
 
Cebby,

Once you disturb the injectors it's good insurance and cheap to replace the top and bottom seals so the problem will go away.

Why are you stripping it so far?

Also I note you have a broken plastic cover over your drivers side injectors.
 
Zuffen said:
Cebby,

Once you disturb the injectors it's good insurance and cheap to replace the top and bottom seals so the problem will go away.

Why are you stripping it so far?

Also I note you have a broken plastic cover over your drivers side injectors.

I'll have to look for a writeup on replacing the seals. It can't be too hard right? Any special tools? Should I replace them all?

I'm stripping down the intake so I can get to the starter to replace the contacts - I'd rather do this now instead of pulling the intake later when its in my 4Runner.

The plastic cover was broken when I received the engine unfortunately. I need to scare up another one. I'd like the one that says Toyota on it (mine says nothing)
 
It appears this engine has a little over 50K miles on it, so I plan to change the timing belt while I'm at it. What am I in for?
 
Cebby,

The broken cover is the louvered one that fits beween the cam cover and the manifold. This one should be easy to locate.

The cover you refer to is the spark plug cover.

You don't need any special tools to replace the injector seals.

Both top and bottom seals slide off once the fuel rails are released/removed, 4 nuts on the inside of the rails (2 each rail).

The seals should be lubricated with fuel when re-installing in the fuel rail.
 
I'm planning to change the water pump and the timing belt. There's a great writeup here:

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

I have a good impact wrench. but am concerned I won't be able to break the crankshaft bolt free. The alternative of bumping the starter with a breaker bar on thhe crank bolt isn't possible since I have 1/2 of the engine apart already.

Where can I get a harmonic balancer pulley remover? I guess this is the ticket for taking the crank pulley off?

Other things that have cropped up. All of the accessory pulleys on my 3VZE that I wanted to use are 4 groove and the 1UZ is 6 groove. Anyone have an idea on where I can source these pieces?

I'm also looking for a writeup on replacing the starter contacts...

Thanks!
 
I'm full of questions today...

I need to remove/replace the exhaust collector flange studs. Where can I get this specialty socket? (and what is it called?)
 
OK - I've been reading and getting conflicting info. When do I need to change the timing belt. If I don't need to right now, I'm not going to. That way, when I change it, I can use the starter to bump the crank pulley nut off since it will be in my rig then.
 
Cebby,

You can loosen the harmonic balancer bolt by using the correct sized socket and having someone jamb the ringgear with a screwdriver.

The way to jamb the ringgear is to insert the blade of a big screwdriver between the teeth of the ringgear and lever it against one of the muonting bolts on your engine stand.

If you're not using an engine stand screw one of the bellhousing bolts in as far as it will go and lever off it.

To remove the collector flange bolts screw two nuts onto the stud and lock them together by tightening them against themselves. Does that make sense? They have to be seriously tight. Then use the nut closest to the collector and unscrew it. When you have the stud off loosen the nuts, relative to one and other, and they come off. Move to the next stud.

If your replacing the water pump do the belt and bearings as it will be a mongrel job one your engine is in.

You can buy the puller at an Auto Store, they're pretty reasonable, or perhaps rent one from a rental company.
 
OK, back at it tonight. Although only for about 45minutes. I had a big project that chewed up ALL of my time for the last week. The good news... my wife and kids are off to DC for the weekend, so I'll hopefully get alot done this weekend. I need to make a trip to the Lexus dealer for some gaskets and starter contacts though - hope they stock some of that stuff...

Tonight I tore more of the engine apart to get to the starter so I can replace the contact. As seen in previous picks, it would one big mo fo to do with the engine in the vehicle.

Lower intake plenum
Starter%20rebuild%20002%20(Medium).jpg

Lower plenum out
Starter%20rebuild%20003%20(Medium).jpg

Starter
Starter%20rebuild%20004%20(Medium).jpg

Starter%20rebuild%20005%20(Medium).jpg
 
Pull the cover and it looks just like the 3VZE starter I replaced the contacts on last November...
Starter%20rebuild%20006%20(Medium).jpg

Plunger out..
Starter%20rebuild%20009%20(Medium).jpg

The contacts weren't in bad shape, but I'm replacing them anyway. I noticed they have alot more surface area than the 3VZE starter contacts did.

I'm welding up a cradle to insert in my floor jack so I can pull the trans/t-case easily . I was looking online at tranny jacks and they are just glorified floor jacks with a cradle.

I did NOT take a crack at the driveshaft bolts tonight though. Probably tomorrow...
 
I need 6 groove pulleys for my AC pump, PS Pump and Alternator. Anyone know where I should start looking? How hard are these to switch out?
 
As those 3 items have 1UZ specific mounting brackets why don't you have the pulleys?

I would think it cheaper and easier to buy an alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner compressor than just buying the pulleys.


The pumps etc are useless without their pulleys.
 
Zuffen said:
As those 3 items have 1UZ specific mounting brackets why don't you have the pulleys?

I would think it cheaper and easier to buy an alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner compressor than just buying the pulleys.


The pumps etc are useless without their pulleys.

I'll probably go that route Rod. I was hoping to adapt my 3VZE parts to the 1UZ. I think the Alt may bolt up, so I might still attempt that one...
 
Can anyone tell me if the SC400 and LS400 Alternators, AC Compressors, and Power Steering pumps are the same?

I've found that the LS Alt has a heat shield and the SC alt does not. Other than that are there differences that wouldn't allow these items to be interchangable?
 
Alternators are the same.

Power steering pumps use the same mounts. I think the SC400 has a remote resevoir and the LS is integrated on top of the pump.

Not sure on the air conditioning.
 
hope you replaced the bearings in that starter. both ones I have done were well worn at 79k and 140k kilometres, this seems to be common on1uz, they are $3 bearings off the shelf from bearing joint
 
hi-lex said:
hope you replaced the bearings in that starter. both ones I have done were well worn at 79k and 140k kilometres, this seems to be common on1uz, they are $3 bearings off the shelf from bearing joint

Thanks for the tip. I'lll need to add that to the list for the starter rebuild. I was planning to get the starter rebuild kit from Lex. I'll need to see what is included in the kit...
 


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