1UZ Stainless Headers

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I don't know how long you've been welding, but your welding is very nice and beats my welding for sure. :approve: I have the arc welder and just try to get the most out of it for rigidity. Anyway, I'm afraid your straight through header design might not give you low end gain, maybe lost at low end, but will only for high end gain. I guess it's up to your preference and driving condition.
 
stevechumo said:
I don't know how long you've been welding, but your welding is very nice and beats my welding for sure. :approve: I have the arc welder and just try to get the most out of it for rigidity. Anyway, I'm afraid your straight through header design might not give you low end gain, maybe lost at low end, but will only for high end gain. I guess it's up to your preference and driving condition.
Click to expand...

Steve, thanks for the compliments on the welding... It kinda helps when you do it for a living (or well did up until 2 weeks ago when I got laid off).

As for design of the headers, Im open to constructive critisisum and am curious as to why you think that there might even be a lose of low end torque.....

A small low end lose is not to much of a concern to me in all reality to be honest as I am more concerned with mid range and top end
 
Well I was just playing with Engine Analyzer Pro and here is a comparison between a 100% stock motor vs. my setup with the initial swap.

My set up = Headers seen here, 2.5" exhaust, and custom head to TB intake manifold. Engine will be 100% internally stock.


1st is HP and TQ of both motors
2nd is just TQ of both
3rd is just HP of both

now I do realize that some people say that the figures aren't always accurate with EAP but if you campair the stock HP and TQ plots to the stock plots for the Toyota TIS they are pretty close so I think I got the Stock motor file pretty accurate.

We'll see what happens in real life if I ever get the swap finished.....
 
The reason I said it is because I've seen when the 4-2-1 design and 4-1 design are used and dynoed. I actually used both designs on my previous Hondas and I saw the big difference in the power band. I know you don't like Honda, but oh well....LOL. And I've seen the straight through design is usually on track cars. I'm not an expert on the exhaust system so I think JBrady might shed some lights on this.

As I recall, the tuners said the difference between the high pressure and low pressure with different designs can cause a different scavenging effect (more like a vacuum energy) that can help sucking out the exhaust gas at low RPM or high RPM. The result is the 4-2-1 with a few bends has more scavenging effect at lower RPM than the 4-1 design. However, at high RPM, the 4-1 is free to flow, while the 4-2-1 still has more backpressure. More details, I give up.
 
im makeing 4 to 1 headers starting this week (i hope) so chris and i can do some comprisons. although not exaclty the same chriss setup and mine will be very similar.
 
stevechumo said:
The reason I said it is because I've seen when the 4-2-1 design and 4-1 design are used and dynoed. I actually used both designs on my previous Hondas and I saw the big difference in the power band. I know you don't like Honda, but oh well....LOL. And I've seen the straight through design is usually on track cars. I'm not an expert on the exhaust system so I think JBrady might shed some lights on this.

As I recall, the tuners said the difference between the high pressure and low pressure with different designs can cause a different scavenging effect (more like a vacuum energy) that can help sucking out the exhaust gas at low RPM or high RPM. The result is the 4-2-1 with a few bends has more scavenging effect at lower RPM than the 4-1 design. However, at high RPM, the 4-1 is free to flow, while the 4-2-1 still has more backpressure. More details, I give up.
Click to expand...

The more bends that you have, the more likelyhood that you will slow down exhaust gas velocity, slowing down velocity through the collector decreases scavanging. The velocity and collector design is what controls is what more or less controls the scavanging. The pipe length has more of an effect on the RPM band where the scavanging effect works best. Typically the shorter the primary in any setup, the high the in the RPM range the header becomes and thus obviously the longer the primary the low in the RPM range the header become effective.

Like every other part in an engine system, everything is a trade off with something else and these headers are an unorthodox approch because they dont follow your typical design size for your mormal Tri-Y setup like I stated in the 1st post of this thread.

And its not that I dont like Honda's as there are some really bad ass ones out there, I just liked my little avatar thing when i saw it for the first time, but one thing to remember here also is that they are high RPM 4cylinder engines and trying to compare a honda engine and whats good or not good for it to a V8 is like trying to compair apples to oranges... The biggist key factor as to why you cant even begin to compare the two is because an inline 4 cylinder naturally has 180* firing pulse's which make a world of differance in exhaust and header design.... This is why you dont see Tri-Y's on Ferrari V8's.. Flat plane cranks gives it both a 180* firing pulse and a higher RPM operating range.
 
RedPhoenix said:
Ha... You caught me. I have been slacking.

I cant wait to see the final result.
Click to expand...


Slacker!!!!!

___________________________________________

Well a few more parts arived today, Not that I can really do anything with them because Im waiting on some 1 7/8" straight pipe to finish the the secondaries of the left side header....

Anyways, the stuff that arived is the V-band flange assemblies and the O2 sensor rings...

Heres a few pics...

V-band_02-001.jpg

V-band_O2-002.jpg
 
Well, got around to finishing the driver (left) header today. Ok well mostly, I still need to drill out the hole for the O2 and weld the fitting on that side, and also put a few small stich welds on the primary's to flange on the out side being that they are just tacked and weld the inside to seal them to the flange, then it will be completely finished.

Heres a few pics of the secondary's complete
014.jpg

015.jpg

016.jpg

017.jpg

Here is the 99% finished header beside what I talked about above....
018.jpg

019.jpg

020.jpg

021.jpg

022.jpg

And a few with it bolted to the motor to show fitment.
023.jpg

024.jpg

025.jpg

026.jpg

027.jpg

028.jpg
 
Most people get excited buying parts and bolting them on. Very few understand the feeling of envisioning a part, building it and then using it. Awesome feeling. Great work!
 
JBrady said:
Most people get excited buying parts and bolting them on. Very few understand the feeling of envisioning a part, building it and then using it. Awesome feeling. Great work!
Click to expand...

John, Thanks!!!!!!!

I cant agree more with you in the feeling of actually building my own stuff insted of buying it. 95% of the time, even if I can buy it, I will still build it unless its totally uncosteffective to build it, then I'll buy it instead, but even then I still have a hard time when it come down to the actual purchase. Its so much more gratifying to stand back and look at something and say "I built that!"
 
Very nice work. Most people don't realize how difficult headers are to make--until they pay someone to make make them. I wish the ones I made came out half as sexy as those.

Mark
 
markstoys said:
Very nice work. Most people don't realize how difficult headers are to make--until they pay someone to make make them. I wish the ones I made came out half as sexy as those.

Mark
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark...

Yeah, headers can be a real pain is arse especailly when they are for a pretty tight fit area and even worse when your doing them without having and engine in the chassis and are only working from dimensions. Years back, I used to wonder why the hell places would charge so much for custom headers, then when I tried to build my first set, I came to realize why....... What really makes them difficult is that they are stainless so everything has to be fit and welded with the each section in a relaxed state or they will be far more likely to crack if anypart is welded and holding or pulling another part into a stressed state..
 
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