1UZ into falcon? has BEEN DONE all updates here

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Gday,
got a couple of days off work so i have some more progress, ordered a CRS gearbox crossmember cos i CBF making my own. at $111 delivered and it fits perfect using the toyota mount. enough room also for the electronic speedo transducer too. pic of it is below.

also Got My tailshaft early too, it is a heavy 3.5" sucker and it may chop out UNIs if i am unlucky? it should not snap in half though, if it chops out unis, i have the option of getting same diameter in a thinner wall size.(depends how quickly the UNIs fail they are good quality)

the final pic for this post is of the engine bay in a running state, albeit in temporary configuration, i will seek advise on the header tank location as the radiator is lower than the thermostat, but the heater hoses are a few inches above the themostat.... the ford header tank is just there for the time being, it just doesnt look right where it is now, the LS400 lexus has a neat recovery bottle here, but i doubt it would work as a header tank.

i hope to have bled the brakes and clutch By this time Tomorrow and at least be able to drive the thing in my back yard with no exhaust fitted. this of course is after i refit the headlights, bumper, guards etc.

i should also be picking up My dash cluster so next week i should have an almost finished Beast. woo hoo

bye for now Dean
CRScrossmember.jpg


tailshaft3andahalfinches.jpg


fansandradiatormountedandwired.jpg
 
It Drives

well it sort of drives, it drove up the ramps ok. i have to fit the remaining 4 engine mount base bolts and tighten the mounts bolts, then run a wire under the car from the speedo for computer, then fit the charcoal canister, and i think i'll have one more attempt at bleeding the clutch as it does not release enough(it drove up the ramps with my foot fully pressed on the pedal, had to start it in gear)
i am not getting a higher voltage when the engine is running so i have to check the alternator(it was working in the last car) i have to rewire one of my themo fan relays as i had a clever idea but did not write it down.
anyway its too trucking hot in the sun, so i will round up my tools again(having trouble finding stuff and this gives me the shits)
might have more to update on Wednesday? weather permitting

XEontheramps.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42/deankdx/XEontheramps.jpg
 
well another day off and its still not finished.

i got around to fitting the engine mount bolts, and making a temporary shifter hump to suit the wrong (cortina position) gear shift housing, as i am still waiting for this to turn up.
i am also waiting on a slave cyl with smaller bore as the one i have does not release the clutch enough.

i wired my thermos properly and fitted an XE temp sender which seems to work ok? need to verify temp againt guage.

still have a problem with alternator not charging and also my instuments are not working correctly the speedo is even driving with the sender disconnected?????? :wtf: could be related, i dont know how to check the alternator though.
confused.gif


still need to find a better looking header tank or mount it XG style near the heater hoses?

starting to annoy me now it should be finished for me to enjoy GRRRR
 
Couple of things.

Interesting that Bullet Supercars still use the CRS bellhousing... I thought they had started making their own.

To swap shifter positions you need to remove the rear housing of the gearbox.
This is near on impossible to do with the gearbox in the car, and something you really should have done before installation.
You can get one that is abotu 1.5" further back, from a 1983-1984 SA63 Celica.
Its the only one that is that far back.
The 1986-1992 MA70 Supra has one that is 1" further back from yours too.



Conversions are fun. Mine has been 6 months in the making and unfortunately I'm having to cut some corners to get her to a dyno day on Saturday.
But at least I'll be able to drive her!
 
Peewee said:
Couple of things.

Interesting that Bullet Supercars still use the CRS bellhousing... I thought they had started making their own.

To swap shifter positions you need to remove the rear housing of the gearbox.
This is near on impossible to do with the gearbox in the car, and something you really should have done before installation.

!
yep, hindsight is wonderfull. in regards to the gear shifter...
i have plenty of room i think? how much do i need? bullet confirmed i need to slide back the extension housing enough to disconnect the rod or something(pics on this job would be great if possible?) i really dont want to remove the gearbox if i dont have to.

yes they supplied a CRS bell housing, it has not been drilled for the dust cover(another thing i should have done while it was out) and also needed a bit of grinder work for the slave cyl. the CRS casting had been ground off though.
 
Yeah, I had to do the same with my CRS bellhousing (regarding dust cover and grinding sump). First time around I took a fair bit off the sump, but 2nd time I only took a couple of mm off.


Getting the rear housing off you'll need to slide it back from memory close on 6 inches.
And then you'll have to make sure the selector rod doesn't fall out of the 3 gates it goes it, and I'm 99% sure it will.

I've done it a couple of times now, and both times with the gbox standing vertically.
The selector rod is annoying, as when you put it back together its very easy to bump it into gear, or bump it out of position.

I'd dread to think how long it will take to do lying down, under the car.

But I have been known to blow things out of proportion.
 
Peewee said:
Yeah,

I'd dread to think how long it will take to do lying down, under the car.

But I have been known to blow things out of proportion.
well, i had better test drive this gearbox before i commit myself to a crap job under the car, hmmmm how to do that with no exhaust and faulty alternator LOL
MAX POWER says i need to put power to a wire on the alternator so that should fix it, then i can get exhaust done then i can test drive..... COOOL
have to bleed my clutch better too, it still not quite releasing.
 
3 pins on alt plug are white wire to batt (charge) lead on alt via 7.5a fuse, yellow to alt light an the last one is red/black or something like that, it goes to ign, that last one maybe diff colour but the other two are right, if you dont have that other white to batt + it wont charge, I just looped it with a fuse holder to the fat white charge wire, hope that doesnt confuse, found the prob on the ute BTW, it was a backfeed from start switch as I didnt think relay was needed, I was wrong!!!!!
 
hi-lex said:
on alt plug an the last one is red/black or something like that, it goes to ign, found the prob on the ute BTW, it was a backfeed from start switch as I didnt think relay was needed, I was wrong!!!!!
right, the last one is not getting power when IGn is on so i hope that is all. thanks.

what was the problem with the ute, a relay to what was needed? i dont think i have a relay fitted from IGN power to computer etc? what issues did it cause? might be my dash playing up fault?
 
hi-lex said:
you need to run a start relay basically, I just ran start from switch thru gbox neut switch to the starter and tapped off that to feed start input to ecu, bad move. it had 2.3v backfeed when motor running which told ecu starter was cranking still so it keeps timing at 10 deg an runs like a dog, look at this thread http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?p=41470#post41470 may thanks to sideshow again
OH i see, i first wired it up without a relay to save time but it would not crank as the battery was low, so i then fitted a relay again. works fineas far as i can tell.
 
WOO HOO. alternator works again

Gday and thanks guys,was not getting power to the black wire on IGN on, the guy who wired the XF had used the falcon air con wire as it went somewhere close to power. i just thought, not doing aircon that way so CHOP...
i still have the speedo reading while car is not moving:wtf: will investigate soon, i have had this before but cant remember if it was a bad earth(of which i need to add a better one anyway)
the power steer is groaning, hoping it will fix itself CBF looking At it yet

the clutch not really bled properly me thinks but i will try to put all the panels and lights on Today and go for a burn around the block regardless(BTW it has no exhaust so it will sound NIIIIIIICE)
if it seems to drive OK, IE not overheat and that, i will have it towed to the Exhaust Joint either Tues or Wednesday then i will drive it home. maybe?

anyway thats it for now, time for a break from the SUN burning a hole in my head then i will refit the rest of the panels
 
I Just Went For A Drive Round The Block

hehehe if you heard what you thought was a drag car driving, it was probably me... straight out pipes 6inches long off the crown manifolds pointing at the ground. ARGH ARGH ARGH OH YEAH(Tim the tool man voice)

just wanted to make sure everything does what it should forwhen i drive it back from the exhaust joint next week. seems ok i guess? tailshaft did not fall out, did not catch fire and speedo seems to work properly now i have fitted the headlights with a couple more earths on them.

i still need to mount my relays properly, mount the computer, make a temporary gear stick boot, and try to find the air con TX valve that i put "somewhere safe"

the oil pressure guage reads middle at idle and goes full scale when given a rev, not sure if i will adjust it.

anyway heres a pic, will update more when i do the exhaust i guess.

ITRUNSandDrives.jpg
 
Me_3 said:
Well Done...

I'm hoping to do the same next weekend.. My tailshaft should be getting done thursday...

Nice being able to see the end of the project?
good luck with yours, yeah i am looking forward to driving mine, i will have a few things that are currently temporary permanent, to fix these as i go(which means when the engineer knocks them back LOL)
 
lowboost said:
deankdx, get some audio of your car with six inch back piping for us. I am planning on running 3 foot long straight pipes right off the header on my setup!
sorry, i wont get time i dont think? i'd have to borrow a Video camera too.,
all i can say is its a nice Note, better by far than out of the factory crown engine pipe. at idle its fairly quiet, no louder than a standard sports exhaust.
when you give it some stick it sounds great. you can definately feel the loss of torque at the low revs with exhaust off though.

if i do get a sound file of any kind i will post it up though, good idea really.
 
EXHAUST DONE, dyno Test fuel mixtures
ok new update,
got the exhaust done Today, twin cats, and 2.5" turbo exhaust same as my XF in avator.(sorry copied this text from my other forum, the XF is a 250Ci straight six crossflow alloyhead.)
idle is so quiet its hard to beleive its running(the XF is NOISY as F**C), sounds nice when its given some stick.
had to wait around till near 7pm to get a go on the Dyno to make sure fuel pump kept up with demand.(probably 2hrs)

clutch needs a bit off attention, not quite releasing, and can not engage reverse without tricks. will fix before i race it. wont stop me from driving it to test the other things though.

DYNO readout is interesting. My xf with GRA mixer and 2.5" zorst extractors and 11-1 comp with cam that revs to 4000rpm, made 80 RWKW.
this car was tested to 5500rpm and made 126RWKW, 50% more power than the XF but still doent sound like much.
i plan to go with Troy Maddestman and get a "HAPPY" (term my dyno bloke uses for high reading dynos)dyno figure on the XF for comparison. as Troyd stock XF got 76 Rwkw there.

funny still is the performance, as when it had the auto it never wheel spun much, again this with manual and 3.45 diff still does not break traction under acceleration.

supprised a mate from work this arvo in his XR8 ute, he pulled up next to me at the lights (what a coincidence i had the day off, he was going home from work)
i took off in my Heap of shite at a rate i doubt he would of kept up with, it was only the fact that i could not get second due to the pr**k of a clutch that he flew by.

cant wait till that is sorted, it goes as good as i remember, no surge of power, just continuous acceleration from 2500- 6000 a bit like the TOP GEAR/fift gear reveiw of the McLaren F1 LOL.

anyway i have a bit of tidying up to do on the wiring, might have a go at fixing the clutch using the spares i have(dont want to stop it driving now)still have to change the front brake rotors and pads. have to get an Air con hose modified as that will/should work too.
then cruise control will be fitted also

will post with any updates from here

P.S i did manage to get some in car footage with sound without exhaust, but i have to work out how to get it on my computer for starters, then i will need to work out how to host up the file. will post it here when i can. i dont expect it this month though.
 
so your speedo reads correct now yeah? if so who did you get the sender off as we gunna need one, sick of stuffing around, got the xf ute nearly sorted, goes like stink when auto decides to change right, got a hilux speedo an cable hooked up temp with speed sensor in speedo hooked in
 
hi-lex said:
so your speedo reads correct now yeah? if so who did you get the sender off as we gunna need one, sick of stuffing around, got the xf ute nearly sorted, goes like stink when auto decides to change right, got a hilux speedo an cable hooked up temp with speed sensor in speedo hooked in
well mine is now out a bit more than 20% as the XF has a 10 pulse/rev transducer and the XE has 8pulse/rev thats with a 3.45 diff ratio.

depending on what diff ratio you have in there, will determine what pulse rate you will need. i found the speed limiter yesterday at around 100KMh due to giving 10pulse per rev to something that needs 4. i chopped that wire on the computer end for now, i think it needs to be there to run in closed loop???

if it needs to be there i will have a 8 pulse for the speedo and a 4 pulse for the speed input for computer they can be joined in a piggy back fasion.

you say when the Auto changes right it goes like stink. what transducer are you using now? does the trans work normally? i found that with 10 pulse/rev on i think an ABS output?? it worked good enough(it would not work with the 4 pulse anywhere when we tried that)
that just happened to have the XF speedo working perfect with 3.45 diff.
 


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