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Well ECU is all good according to Haltech. The power on grey and red is due to backfeeding through the relay coils on their relay box ( knew i should have built my own) as they have battery power at the coils all the time. Plugged everything in yesterday and still no reverse when electronics...

Have you pulled the stepper motor out and cleaned it? Could just be gummed up a bit

Yes i have checked all the possible things. Spent some time with a Haltech tech this morning as well but still no joy. Not too concerned with the voltage at the grey and red when switched off but still can't find why i have constant power as S1. Am sending the ecu to Haltech for testing just for...

I have 10v at DPO6 which should be earth switched when key is on. This is a haltech premium loom. Only place that can be coming from is the ecu

The grey and red wires are 12v+ from the ecu once ign is on. They feed anything that needs 12v with ign on

Also thanks for shareing the circuit diagram. I'm sure it will come in handy for other projects

PRNDL shows correct gear when shifted. Even if i unplug it i still have 12v at S1. Is the one you made tuneable in NSP or fixed shifts? I did look around for something to build but couldn't find anything suitable They were set to low originally but sorted that quite a while ago. I'm suspecting...

PRNDL shows correct gear when shifted. Even if i unplug it i still have 12v at S1. Is the one you made tuneable in NSP or fixed shifts? I did look around for something to build but couldn't find anything suitable

Yes i have it all selected properly and using NSP software. I think the problem is that i have power at S1 whether in P R N and D. As far as i have heard only supposed to be powered in drive. Are you using the PRNDL unit from haltech?

I used the DBW outputs for S1 and S2 operation. Also using Haltechs PRNDL controllers which was working ok until the other day when software had a bit of a meltdown. Will get onto Haltech tomorrow and see what they have to say

Thanks. Thats what i thought. Will have to search why it's happening

G'day all, Just trying to sort out my trans running a Haltech 2500 ecu. Having trouble with tuning the gear changes but that isn't the problem. problem i have is that i have no reverse. If i unplug the connector at the back of the trans for the solenoids reverse is fine. I have power at No1...

I'm running Yarris coils on mine. Just need to take a bit off the outside diameter with sand paper to make them fit

Well i don't know what happened to my last reply on here but here we go again. I did reply to your email so i don't know where that ended up. I would have to find out prices for casting again as i haven't made any for a while due to lack of interest.

Sorry haven't been on here for a while. I haven't bothered making any more sumps due to lack of interest. I see on here that people asked for them in the past but when they became available they mostly all disappeared when askled to put their money where there mouth was. I imagine that is also...

I have had one in my 1UZ powered 37 Chev for about 6 years now. TCU and ECU no problems

As I posted earlier. That is not the ideal place to take measurements from as being the surface that the head bolt is torqued down it could be slightly compressed and also the machining tolerance on a spotface would be greater than the cam journal tolerance. I would take all the measurements...

Haha 15 years ago I had never heard of a 1uz lol

G'day Rod, did yours not have the dipstick?

If it doesn't run full length then you are only measuring the lower pan not the complete sump. The rest of the sump is between the lower pan and the base of the block