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So i bought some resistors from the local electronics store. It costed me a whopping $2.05. The shift solenoids a and b have the same ohm resistance value of 11 to 16 so i got a 13 ohm resistor . The a and b are triggerd by b+ voltage amd the valve body grounds the circuit. So i hooked my test...

So the saga continues... the 1uz swap has been a wonderful learning curve for me . ive learned so much about wiring through this build. So far i have got all the Ecu codes engine side off of my vehicle thru using the factory diagrams alldata, mitchell, and many helpful comments through this...

So after research, i have learned that there are 2 different ways to get rid of the check engine light for egr delete. Ether put a resistor on the egr temp sensor circuit obd1 only , or plug the top part of the egr valve back in obd2. I deleted this egr a long time ago, so i lost my egr valve...

while vehicle is running the FPR never produces more than 150mv , the testing says the FPR should put out 9-14 v for 60 seconds then drop to 0-3 volts . So im guessing the fuel pump is bypassing the stage from light load to heavy load and its always running at heavy load?? Also i might add i am...

p1200 gloverman

so update on the throttle issue. the ecu threw a p1200 history code.

So i am writing this to clarify whether i am on the right track or not . From what i have read on the Egr valve and its functions with the ECM PURPOSE The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Temperature Sensor is used for on-board monitoring of EGR function. OPERATION By measuring the...

the only codes that are stored are the rear 02s ( not hooked up) , egr (deleted) and trans solenoid codes ( it has a w58 swap) before i hook up the scope, i have a digital gauge that is hooked to the obd2 port. im going to take a long trip and monitor the tps . I feel that this is the cause of...

i am also going to hook an oscilloscope up to the tps wire to see if the sensor is acting up or the ecu. i do have to add that all my connections are butt connected for the wiring

i have a 1988 toyota cressida with a 1995 1uz w58 swap. the issue i have is after a 30-1hr highway trip doing 60-70 mph consistently, the engine loses complete throttle response causing me to pull over to the side and coasting till it get around 40 and it seems to be fine unless i get above 60...

i also have a bit of a leak on my brake booster also

So i got to thinking about what you said real hard last sunday , and after reading the wiring diagrams for the ls engine i noticed there was a pin #13 on e11 connector that is tied into the mg clutch circuit on the factory lexus. I had previously de pinned that #13 e11 not knowing what its...

I have this 1uz swapped cressida and it has a 95 ls400 engine I merged the factory condensor and drier , with the ls400 compressor , and the a/c blows cold. My issue is when coming to a stop the idle is super low so the alt stops charging and, when hot sometimes oil pressure drops to nothing...

Thank you so much for the advice , after preforming the test you recommended , i found that i wired the volt meters ground into the illumination wire , which apparently has a ground when the lights are off , but is energized with the lights on. found the correct ground wire and BAM its fixed ...

thats exactly why i asked the question !! thanks for the response

I recently read a write up by nigel wade on wiring up a 1uz. In this write up page # 49 he explains that if you are not running rear o2 sensors that there is a way of getting rid of the CEL without buying a fancy 02 eliminator plug. I attached the page below. My question to the community is ...

according to my diagrams the mass air flow gets its switched power thru the +b circuit coming off of the main relay , so i was going to tap into that wire for power . what do u think

is the diagrams you have for a 1st gen 1uz or a 2nd ? i have alldata at my shop and a paper repair manual , this is a 95 ls400 engine and the m

ive fried 3

thank you for the response , but i think i figured it out. After thinking about it i remembered that when i was first done and driving the car it was like it was in fail safe mode. The issue was that the maf didn't have a power source i forgot to repin the II1 connector #5. So i repined the #5...