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For all of you guys out there that are running standalone or some form of ignition control that you can specify the total timing at a specific area, what are you'll running at 100kpa? Or basically what is your ignition curve at 100kpa? Mine looks like this RPM / total timing @ 100kpa 500 /...

No, they are Dioded and a completed circuit. or atleast from my understanding they are (i.e. they both have to be connected for it to fire)... Shorting one does not short both, it completes the curcuit. The attached images is how I usually bench test a typical GM dual tower coil using a...

That first coil (BIC) is a typical GM DIS coil. They are cheap and readily avalible (at least here in the states) and a simple wire from the second terminal to ground works quite well when running them on a singe cylinder setup...

The resistance problem shouldn't be an issue. Total circuit resistance is still low enough even with with .75ohms of the wire that you should still be producing more then enough spark....... With the specs that you provided of .75ohms and using the highest coil primary resistance of .65ohms...

Back to this issue. Are you sure that you dont have the #3 and #5 wires flip flopped on the dizzy cap? They are fired in sequence on the Right bank dizzy cap so the could easily be flip flopped. Looking at the dizzy cap plug wire towers on the Right bank (driverside for you being in AUST.)...

What are the exact code numbers that your getting?

The coils fire on alternating pulses. The first coil fires, then 90deg later the second coil fires, then 90deg later, back to the first coil and so on. your not seeing the other coil fire within the timing makes cause it wont. Basically the first coil fires at 0 and 180 and the second coil...

The code 14 is the the first one you need to be paying attention to here... Code 14 = No IGF1 detected in 8 consecutive ignition events. When this happens, the ECU cuts fuel. The first thing I would try is flip-floping the left and right coil and see if the 14 changes to a 15 if it does then...

Have you tried pulling codes to see if any are showing up?

You did set it with taking the TB off and using a feeler gauge to make sure that there was and was not continuity between IDL and E2 with the correct feeler gauge inplace right?

I dont see it being a fuel supply issue cause that would tend to get worse as you try to rev it and your saying that its runs great when you rev it. Are you 100% positive without a doubt sure that you have the TPS set correctly???

David, one thing to note about its very high numbers for such low boost is that its a built LSx engine and it doesn't specify the displacement so I'd venture to guess that its been pushed to the limit of the LSx which is just over 500cid (IIRC).... Remember, more displacement = more power at a...

Like I've always said, "MOST" 1000whp Supra's are nothing more then dyno queens and thats it... The above graphs show what a real High HP engine should be like. I'd love to see what the graph would look like and what peak numbers would be if it wasn't slipping the wheels.... For nearly...

cuh8er, The sensor that you changed out is the cold start time switch. This will have no effect on idle as it is only possible active during cranking and even then only is the coolent is under a certian temp while cranking. As soon as you let get of the key, it looses voltage supply as it...

Zach, adding additional lines to the design would be easy both during and after (if it was an after thought abviously that the end user needed)

Yeah, its a sub O2 sensor malfunction... Im not seeing where its a heater circuit problem. If it were a heater circuit problem, then is should be a P0161 which is bank 2 sensor 2. Try swaping the left and right sub (secondary) O2's and see if the code changes to a P0136. If it does change...

UZZ-TT, if you just need a basic redesigned housing cover, let me know what you need and I can do the drawings for it for you to make it easier to have someone build for you or you build it yourself if you have the means... If you needed, I could probably build it for you...

Thomas, I dont want to let out to much information on it as it was jakes idea and I was working on the design and drawings for it, but basically its just a housing that is remotely connected to the engine using braided lines or hoses...

Thomas, I'll definitly keep you and everyone else updated once I have a the heads and have some hard facts on them and about interference issues....

I'll keep that in mind. I have a local wrecker that has a left side complete head and said they can probably get me the right side comeplete for 200 per head. Money is tight at the very moment so I cant buy anything until probably next month. 600 shipped from GA to me in FL is not a bad price so...