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The crank has been spinning numerous times while I was cranking the car, but when I manually set it to "0" both cam gears align with the marks on the back plate. From what I know, usually if the belt if off by one tooth, the car will run, just roughly?

Thats the first thing I did, its correct. I didnt remover spark plugs, just disconnected the wires from the distributor caps.

I finished replacing the timing belt today, and tried starting the car, but it wont start - it cranks, and after a few cranks it backfires smoke through the intake (makes horrible sound during the backfire too). I checked for spark, and both banks have spark. I cranked the car until crank pulley...

Your air temp sensor is actually integrated into your MAF, and it changes resistance with varying weather. I thought of that too, and I even tried tricking the ECU into thinking it was hotter or colder outside by splitting the wire from the sensor and putting different resistors in there - No...

Well, but the PS pump is on the other side. If you look on this picture, most of the oil is on the right side, and the PS pump is on the left side.

So I'm in the middle of timing belt replacement, and I discovered that the drivers bottom side of my engine is covered with thick residue - perhaps mixture of oil and dirt? It is very similar to the picture below. Where can that be coming from?

No cigar just yet, but I'm in the middle of timing belt/water pump replacement, so once I finish lets see what that brings.

But there's nothing in these links that explains how to deal with my problem :(

I actually do not have it removed completely, its just removed from the cam pulleys - I followed the tutorial on lexls.com.

One more thing, while trying to get that damn bolt out, I've turned the crank counter clockwise a few times - is that really bad? I know Lexus recommends turning it clockwise only.

By the way, once I get to the water pump, how far am I from the headgasket? I'm doing the repair because my water pump was faulty, and I've been drivin for a while with overheating engine, and while I didn't blow the head gasket, I imagine it might have sustained some damage, and it's not a bad...

So, I'm in the middle of a timing belt/water pump replacement, and I think I've messed up. I got to the point where I aligned the cam pulleys and crankshafter pulley, and removed the timing belt. And now it's time to remove the damn crankshaft pulley bolt, which I can't seem to get. But that's...

I have done so much trying to fix the problem, and no cigar so far. Read my thread here: http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8444 And I'm pretty sure it's somehow heat related, because my engine isn't overheating, however it runs very well, and has a lot of torque while its still...

It's something else, and I think it's heat related, because I have the same situation, and I already replaced the sensor, with no luck. However, try driving without your MAF for 30 minutes or so, when the engine is nice and hot, and it should lose all the extra acceleration.

I'm also thinking, since the engine is running beautifully when cold, maybe once it warms up for whatever reason its running internally too hot, and even thought the coolant temperature is normal, the engine overheats internally, starts pinging, and knock sensors retard the timing, thus it loses...

Yeah, I wish I still had the receipt... I paid cash too, so I have no proof.

Welp, just went to Autozone, picked up a coolant temperature sensor, and replaced it. No change.

My other idea, is if everything else fails, is to get one of these Apexi SAFC's, and tune the air/fuel mix.

So that means I wont be able to pull error codes, right? I'm going to try and find a good quality trustworthy diagnostics shop. I once went to a diagnostics shop nearby with my GS430, because it was pinging, and was ripped off out of $500, they lied to me that they had to re-program the ECU...

Haven't tested any of these, I assume I need to take it a dealer or a good diagnostics shop to get it done?