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That looks pretty cool. I have a bracket made from RHS that bolts to the engine mounts so I can run the engine sitting just off the floor. Its a simple thing...but functional Elliot

I agree. tell you what..... I'll swap my engine for your new one, then you can set mine up on a stand and I'll fit yours in my car !!!! :) Elliot

I know you can buy the part you want off the shelf, but as an alternative, you could remove the trac butterfly and assembly and get a professional tig welder to seal up the two holes that are left. That's what I've done with mine and it looks fairly factory now its been cleaned up and polished...

Not too much to update on. I'm still working on the sump assembly, and not gotten much further with that yet as the new M48 arrived so I was too busy working on the engine wiring harness which I am now about half way through. Also took delivery of a set of magnecor leads for AU$300 which i...

That's good to hear to managed to get it all back together ok. It's always going to be a harder job doing the mods with the transmission still fitted to the car. How much shorter are the gear changes now do you think in seconds ? Does the car get upto freeway speeds quicker from standstill ...

I use compressed air to clean up the dust and grit that gets into the valley and the places you cant reach. I work for a company that makes ink. We have a product at work that feeds rubber. It is excellent on all the black parts as the plastic actually absorbs the product and it brings 20 year...

I'd do as david sugests...compress the tensioner in a vice protected with soft jaws, insert a pin (a small allen key works fine), then re-install the tensioner and remove the pin. You should now remove the covers from the front of the cam sprockets to asses the position of the cams. I'd be...

Justen....I've heard a few people say you can delete the ISCV without any problems, I just like the idea of it being as smooth as possible. There's not a huge amount of effort involved in using the Ford one, but I agree in that it would help keep the engine bay cleaner. It looks like the Ford...

Squeezed in some time during work hours today to fold up the main body. It all appears to work so far. I was hoping to set up my mig for aluminium tonight and tack it up, but I think I need a new mig liner for the aluminium wire so I'll get one tomorrow. I wont be doing the final...

Got quite a bit on at the moment, but nothing exciting to show. I've already made a stainless steel sump which is complete and ready to be fitted, but the design I chose has been bothering me and I've decided to make another one, this time from aluminium to save some weight. The main plate...

Getting back to the Motec 1uz system. Heres what I got in an email from the guy at motec today :- This ECU will run sequential injection but is designed for a 4 cylinder engine so only has 4 injector outputs. It will run the engine in group fire mode which means that the injectors are...

Just though I'd share this with you guys (I hope it's news....maybe some of you know more than I do). I was at my regular car club meeting tonight held in Melbourne. I was chatting to one of the members there, who it turns out happens to work for Motec. He's one of the application engineers...

Next, undo all the bolts that secure the main valve body to the transmission. There are quite a few bolts and you should make a note of where each one comes from as they are all different lengths and should go back in the same position. I made a simple cardboard template and poked the bolts...

Heres a bit of a pictorial for those who havent seen inside a transmission before. First pic shows the oil pan which must be removed first. if you're doing this with the transmission fitted to the car, then you should drain the oil through the drain plug first. Undo all the bolts around the...

The small quarter round shim for the pressure regulator should stay in place as its under spring tension from the regulator. I was making the accumulator shims to be 21 x 7. The topic I found on it on the net explains that they used a 6mm shim. they suggested that an 8mm thickness could make...

The engine wiring harness has now been stripped, cleaned and re-wrapped with new black convoluted tubing and heat shrink. It didnt take too long and looks much better now. The harness has been mounted onto the engine with a few new connectors that needed replacing. I'm waiting on a few engine...

Not updated my engine build progress for some time. Finally after 2 weeks of swapping measuring and changine cam shims, all the valve clearances are now spot on. With that done, I've been able to final fit the cambelt, belt tensioner along with new idler pulleys/bearings. The harmonic balancer...

It's not a mocal pump no. Not sure what brand it is, it came out from the UK. It is sold as 'turbo oil scavenging pump'. Its rated for high temperature oil at about 40psi I think from memory. I know thats only half what the engine oil pump will put out at idle, but it's only to get the oil...

Good to know this idea of pre-oiling before start up has already been done and works. It took me ages to find a manufacturer who makes a suitable rated non return valve that doesnt restrict flow... Most of the ones I found were 'poppet' type valves....which will restric flow somewhat...

Not much to update apart from at last I've finally finished setting up the valve clearances today. 31 of them are spot on 10 thou and 6 thou, just one of the inlets is 7 thou. I've been back to the shim guy 5 times this week..I'm sure he must be sick of the sight of me by now........ Had two...