Search results

OK... I'll try not to take so long this time. I've just e-mailed the CAD drawing of the header flanges to you.

Hi Cebby, Sorry it's taken so long to get back to you about the header flanges; I've been using all the spare time I have trying to get wiring finished so I can get the surf certified. Anyway.... That would be great if you could host the flanges. Im sure the CAD file will save anyone who...

I posted a whole heap of stuff about the radiator but it seemed to have disappeared off the face of the earth. I guess I'll have to try and remember what I posted and post it again.

And finally... Here's the new headers newly HPC coated and ready to be bolted in.

As soon as I got the primaries back (from being tig welded), I cleaned up the welds, bolted the header flanges on, then started tacking them in place. Once tacked in place, I unbolted them from the engine and found there wasn't enough clearance to get them out. I ended up unbolting the body...

Has anyone had any problems with the hydraulic pump that drives the fan??? I'll be using 2 electric fans and won't be running the hydraulic pump. Besides, there's not enough room between the engine & the radiator to run the hoses. I tried to find a pulley without the pump from an earlier...

No problem.. I'll post it on a new thread in the exhaust section in the next couple of days.

Hi Muzz Thanks for the coment. I just hope these headers will be worth the effort. The progress hasn't been as quick as it seems..... I've just been really slack at posting additions to this thread.

And now for the headers.... I was thinking of using the factory headers but found that it wouldn't be a straight bolt-in job. The primaries on the passengers side will fit, but on the drivers side, they would need to be shortened & re-welded to the header flange so that it would fit between...

There was just one more thing I needed to do before making a start on the headers... I needed to mount the slave cylinder for the clutch. There was nothing to bolt the slave cylinder to on the bellhousing so I made up a mounting bracket and bolted it to the bellhousing using 2 of the bolts...

I found that with the 2" body lift, the steering rod would be too short so I made up a 12mm thick spacer and bolted it between the steering rod and steering box. I also had to extended the studs so that they would bottom out on the steering rod to prevent the rubber dampening disk from shearing...

Because of the gearbox moving foward, I had to cut the hole around the gearstick to give it some clearance.

Hi Gloverman, I swapped the factory ECU that came with this engine for one from an earlier crown when I bought it - so that's what I'll be using. (For now anyway) I may change to a Link later on but for now, I'll stick with the one I have. Cheers.

The steering rod wasn't connected in the photo. I was just trying out the factory headers to see if they would fit which they did on the passengers side, but not the drivers side due to the steering rod being in the way. The only way to make them fit with enough clearance is to cut the header...

Now that I have the engine mounts bolted in place, I removed the temporary engine mount from across the sump and found that the engine only dropped about 3 or 4mm. I was expecting it to drop about 6 - 8mm so I still had plenty of clearance. The gearbox was now 32mm further foward and about...

Here's the right hand side engine mount bolted in place looking from the back of the engine.

The engine mounts didn't take very long to make once I figured out what to do. First, I cut a rectangular shape of steel big enough to bolt up to the 4 mounting bolts on the engine block and bolted them in place. I then cut some smaller rectangles and bolted them onto the original Hilux rubber...

Here's the 1UZ bolted up to the gearbox and sitting on the temporary support. The wood between the SHS & the sump is to pack it to the right height to make the engine mounts. I wanted to get the engine down as low as possible without having to cut & modify the sump. This meant I had to remove...

The next thing to do was to replace the cam belt, tensioner & idler bearings which was a lot easier than I thought. Not only did the cam & crank pulleys have alignment marks on them (as you would expect)... The cambelt also had alignment marks as well. It would be great if Toyota made everything...

The adaptor bolted to the R150 gearbox. And the bellhousing bolted in place with the original hilux clutch fork and new thrust bearing.