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The ABS pump should only ever operate when brake lockup is detected. Under normal braking, it is switched off.

If the aftermarket one you used started cracking, I'd guess its either very old stock (and the rubber has hardened over time), or it was just a cheap knock off. It also depends on your application... drifting, clutch kicks, etc are going to hammer any coupling. Also, if you are...

Not from personal experience, but Hardy Spicer are known for supplying parts to many car/truck companies that are then on-sold as genuine. Its a brand I would trust.

Hardy Spicer

High effort and low braking power normally starts with the brake booster. You should have large vacuum line running from the intake manifold to the booster. Pull it off with the engine running - it should create a large intake leak. If it doesn't, check the hose for obstructions or collapse...

There are a number of things that cause bad idle and stalling. Cold start injector Coolant temp sensor Idle Speed Control Valve Intake leak What have you checked?

This adapter is for removing the rubber donut and replacing it with a universal yoke-type tailshaft - not really really necessary on a standard or mild engine as the donuts are readily available and easy to replace. You would normally use one for an engine conversion, as its quite difficult to...

If you think something is draining the battery, perform a parasitic current draw test. Google will tell you several ways to do it. Anything more than 80-90 miliamps should be cause for concern. From there, it's simply a matter of disconnecting individual circuits. Once the current draw drops...

Hi Joe, Anything is possible if you have enough money, but unless someone here has done the swap before, its unlikely you'll find any answers here. Lextreme is mainly focused on the UZ engine. Have you tried the IS forums? Even though the 2UR was available in Gen2 IS, there is every chance...

Good luck if you ever top it out in 4th gear!

I've only tested the setting to about 80kph, as my car isn't engineered or registered yet... so just on a "private road". But yes, it kicks down and lights up the tyres nicely. 3-2 is especially good.

You should have your 4-3 downshift set to at least 5kph slower than the upshift speed for each increment of engine demand %. For the test driving that I've done, this map works just fine - up and down shifting. Bear in mind, these speed settings are specific to my diff ratio and tyre circumference.

Glad you have it worked out. If you need some advice on the shift table map, just say so.

Definitely more vibration (not that the 1UZ is inherently vibey engine). Anything nolathane increases force and vibration transfer. Suspension, subframes and engines. Unless you're going full race car, I'd suggest you stick with an OE style rubber mount.

To clarify, your wiring and fuse(s) that connect power to the coils and injectors should be rated to at least 20 amps. If the wiring isn't thick enough, it will restrict current and cause the circuit to limit under load. You're running out of either air, fuel or spark. The immobiliser should...

1. Inspect the oil level and top up if required 2. Perform stall test. Warm up the engine, put gear selector in drive, hold down brakes hard, press full throttle for max 5 seconds and see what RPM the tacho shows. It should be around 2,200 rpm. Repeat the test in Reverse gear. This will give...

Do you have good (20a) power to your injectors and ignition?

Do you have 50psi fuel pressure when the fault occurs? Pressure is nothing without flow. Do you still have the original pump fitted and what engine was the car originally fitted with?

Some more info here https://www.lextreme.com/1uzfe-oil-pump/

Just searched google for "1UZ Oil Pump" and found ebay ad Toyota Genuine Land Cruiser OIL PUMP 1UZ 2UZ 3UZ-FE GS300 LX470 PN: 15100-50040