Search results

The 2 wire IAC Solenoid does buzz a little when the engine isn't running but its imperceivable as soon as the engine starts. The closed loop on it works very well. I did some data logging today and the air temps sit around 30-35 degrees when running 6psi - but the sensor seems to heat soak a...

While there is much more to do on the car before it's finished, I am nearing the point where it's ready for dyno tuning. One of the main concerns I had was the cooling system. The current setup is: Chasebays Radiator with dual pass core 22" x 17" x 3” (W/H/D) 20AN fittings with 1.25” hoses 16”...

When you say "it won't start", do you mean that: a) the engine cranks over but won't fire up, or b) the engine won't even crank over Engine won't start is a fairly broad statement - but the answer to the question above will determine what happens next... There is a logical process to...

P/N for Igniters (UCF10 09.1991 to 10.1994) are 89621-12010 and 89621-12050 You need one of each. Not sure if they're swappable... someone smarter than me would probably know

There are two or three versions of the LS400 harness, and two versions of SC400 harness. You may get lucky with the ECU plugs but there can be differences with emissions gear. How badly damaged is your original harness?

Even on hot days, it cycles between 90 and 87 degrees C with the fan. The radiator is excellent and keeps it in the mid to low 80s when driving around. Not entirely happy with the filler though... no matter how I bleed it, the system seems to keep a tiny pocket of air in the upper hose - but I...

Anyone here running one of these... or seen one installed? https://www.cncinnovationsmy.com/product-page/copy-of-ls1-ls2-ls6-cathedral-fully-billet-intake-manifold

Intake is now finished - I promised myself I wouldn't cut any of the body for this conversion and its still 100% intact. It was impossible to squeeze a 4" pipe behind the headlight and down into the bumper cavity, so I have to get creative. Yes, I know it's not a full flow pipe, but the actual...

From my experience with Toyota, there can occasionally be small changes made in the lead up to a new model... or when the vehicle is sold and badged as a 1993 but is actually MY94 spec. I've also seen wiring colour changes and pin location changes mid-year model that weren't documented in the EWD.

Good info there Ivan. For TC Lockup, I have it disabled for anything over 30% throttle. Modern torque converters have a multiplate lockup clutch which will hold full engine power... but old ones like ours are a single plate and they're not very strong. Another thing to consider is the F1 2nd...

Ignition module - you should have 2 of them.

Hi Ivan, The current exhaust system (legal & quiet) is choking the engine over 5000rpm so, once I have had the engine tuned for engineering, I will look are remapping the shift points to suit. This means I will also have to remap it when I've finished building the bigger exhaust system...

After waiting months for a Transgo shift kit (US) and A343 valve body gaskets (Ukraine), the transmission is now back together, and it should be driving over the next few days. I've drilled out the centre plate ports to the "hot rod" spec size so shifts would be tight. Will be interesting to see...

Having swapped valve bodies a few times now with the transmission still in the car, I thought it might be useful to share some hints. Thanks to gravity and kinetic energy, as soon as the valve body is removed from the transmission housing, 3 out of the 4 accumulator pistons will normally fall...

In my experience, their either work, or they don't. There is always an exception to the rule though! Good to hear you found the solution.

Cams, headwork and a bump in compression would only get you to around 300rwhp. If you are after 400-450, turbo or supercharger is the way to go. For the cost of pistons, porting, valves kelford cams and a good ITB set, you're nearly there with forced induction always. You'd need an aftermarket...

Not sure if 1 and 3 are in the same group but diagnosis is fairly simple. Remove the connectors and test the pins - one pin should have 12v with ign switched on, the other should have less than 1 ohm of resistance back to the corrosponding ECU pin.

SIL runs up to 7V to ensure your scope if set to the correct voltage and 1ms/div should be fine for time.

Just checked some old training material and I can confirm that your ECU runs 3 types of multiplex: BEAN (Body Electronics Area Network) via the pins MPX1 and MPX2 This was for ECM to body control communication - like AC on/off, etc UART (Universal Asynchronous Receive & Transmit) via the pins...

Generic OBD-II reads predominately from CAN hi & lo - which your ECU pinout doesn't seem to have. From memory, SIL was only used for Transponder Key ECU, Telematics, TPMS etc anyway. The standards to OBD-II are: Pin2 Bus Positive Pin4 Chassis Ground Pin5 Signal Ground Pin6 CAN hi Pin7 K-Line...