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I am a little worried about adequate cylinder filling with such an oversquare engine. I may have no idea what I'm talking about, but what I mean is that you have to fill a much larger space with the same amount of "time" (stroke). Now granted, with 1.82 R/S ratio, you've got less dwell and...

A great example of this is the 4.6L modular Ford V8 compared to the 5.0L small block. HUGE difference in size, much more displacement options (though this is because Ford chose a poor bore spaceing for the 4.6), and obviously more complex.

Yeah. If you want to maximize the setup, a standalone is a must. But at the same time, a piggyback is a great way to get your feet wet.

Okay, quick note, brain fart again. The 156mm rod is 6mm longer, so moving the wrist pin up 3mm will not work (duh). I think with ring alterations, we may be able to get the pin up 6mm. They will look like 928S' pistons.

Yeah, the new emanage does it too. It's also a bit more expensive but it's probably one of the best piggybacks you can buy.

Depending on the height and weight of fluid in the sump, you are going to have a certain amount of head applied by the tank. In other words, you're going to get some kind of pressure. Actually, with this setup, I think it would work well for a ball-bearing. You might be able to design the...

Not to cross-post info, but my choice will be 93.5mm stroke. That way, I can use the stock pistons and try it out. With the 1UZ, I will be looking at about 4.55L. Then, in the future, I'd like to get the wet sleeves and 156mm upgraded rods and make a 6.0L, with a 1.67 R/S ratio.

Actually, I think the ideal setup would be 93.5mm stroke with the wet sleeves, move the wrist pin up 3mm, use 156mm rods and get a really high revving 6.0L. The rod/stroke ratio would be 1.67, better than most Hondas.

How about a 6.2L conversion? If we use the 4g63 rods as in my other thread, stock crank with a 96.5mm stroke, and the Darton 3.99" wet sleeve (which is about 101mm), that's what we'd get. Now if you want to get really crazy, we could get a 2UZ crank and get 98mm of stroke out of it. But...

The max serviceable limit of these cylinder bores is .060". If we're staying N/A, I say we go all out and do .060" over, which is an 89mm bore. With a stroke of 96.5mm, we get a displacement of 4.7L, with a 1UZ block. WITH THE STOCK CRANK! :) I almost feel like this engine would be much...

Okay guys, I screwed up. The rod journal size that I have been quoting for the 4g63 rods is actually the rod bore size. Which means the rod journal size is another 3mm smaller. I realized this when I was looking at some aftermarket rods. This means we're actually grinding 7mm off the rod...

Yeah, I knew that a lot of Hondas had less than "optimal" R/S ratio, a fact that a lot of people don't seem to realize. I think I wouldn't want to go too thin on the rod journal size, so with 48mm, I think a 150mm rod will be the longest rod I'd be able to easily fit without decreasing stroke...

GT35R will only work with a gravity drain setup. There is very little oil pressure flowing through the CHRA and it's too easy to screw ball bearing CHRA's up when the oil flow isn't dead-on.

There is a new piggyback that allows you to convert your MAF system to a MAP system. It is rather expensive for a piggyback but a bargain compared to a full stand-alone, especially if your mainly wanting to ditch the MAF.

By the way, 928S, I LOVE those pistons! That's exactly what I wanted to do, a short skirt with thin ring lands. I am familiar with Mahle as I'm a big Porsche fan myself. Definitely great pistons but they may be too deep for my pockets. I'm actually considering trying to see how far I can go...

Are you talking about head gaskets? You should be able to get Cometics for around $150 or so. Or, better yet, if we use a strong but thinner gasket, we could get a little more compression ratio while we're at it without having to machine the head at all. I calculated it to be about 71.8...

Piggybacks are okay for certain applications. You can definitely make a 10-second car with them. But for accuracy of tuning, stand-alones are better. Oh, and by the way, you CAN remove the AFM with a piggyback.

While I don't disagree that the resevior idea would work, I'd be hesitant to try it. But I was thinking something similar myself, and I'd like to see how it works so if you're the guinea pig, more power to you!

:laugh2: That's awesome...

Alright, I have another idea. This is a budget, 10k-capable engine. Take the 8 4g63 rods and have them shaved. Offset-grind the crank 3mm closer to the center with the 48mm journal size. Now you can use the stock pistons! 91mm bore X 84.5mm stroke = 4.4L Rod/stroke ratio is 1.77...