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temp on hold due to pulling out the gearbox for the third time...replacing box this week i hope , with a new gearbox this time...(and paddle clutch..ouch too much money) then sc time again..(though is ready to fit bar the plating/painting)

has been pointed out

where's your sense of adventure?;)

and why would you want to?

he he he he...

hi sideshow..thats exactly why i have not done anything yet...i have already dropped the rpm via the idle air pipe,but used an lpg "power valve" (an adjustable gas tight valve) to alter the air flow..but it still takes ages to warm up..(the termosate is working)..it would not be a real problem...

this is where am at now...still on going..but much closer.. outlet to ic on right return from ic just placed on

feels like its too rich at first cold startup..absoultey sticks the car out with unburnt fuel smell..(tis a 1972 range rover, it does leak,so gases from tail pipe getting in i suspect..) have checked for fuel leaks,but it ain't that as it would do it all the time and when on lpg (as the fuel...

yep..no probs on 91..likes more though for get up and go.. could just be leads or plugs breaking down..have you checked them?what type of rpm limit wall are you getting? hard?(hitting rev limit) or soft..(like running out of fuel/plugs breaking down etc)was it good before swap?

its real easy...if you using lexus auto box then its easier still... all info is on here somewhere..but if you get stuck will find my paper version of wiring and send it you,(mines in me head,)but its basic, i have changed it since then.. connect a few extra wires up to what you find on here...

guessed as much.. no i havn't seen "wanky" cheapo ones in use..all my experience has been on lovely dirty diesels where i dont need afr meter just a good egt gauge (and boost gauge).. so mr sideshow, thanks for that info, i wont then be buying the cheapo but the expensiveo one..

thanks......

well gonna need one, narrow band would use existing sensor,wide would not.. over 3 x the price are wide band...whats the difference?both read afr.. please explain, i guess i will need expensive wide type?

exactly...thats why i am using air to air for now and running it external..even though the metal work is a nightmare to do . zuffen, what dia ic pipe you using? i hope 2.5 inch will be enough,thats the dia of ic inlets i have..2 inch would have been easier though to fab up on manifold..

i really dont see reaction of ali to steel in the manifold being a problem, they will never touch anyway,(gaskets).. rusting internally may be a problem. though it will always have a thin coat of oil drawn up though the engine breathers spread all over it.. teflon or galv then..though cold...

thanks for all your concern..its staying steel..,.next one will be ali.. it will be getting coated anyway..what in ? not sure..chrome??teflon? ali is a better conductor of heat..steel is worse.(thats why steel stays hotter longer,it takes longer for the heat to transfer into it,and longer...

ali conducts heat better, ie better thermal conductor..steel stays hot longer.yes it does..so what?they make engines of iron and steel.. ali reacts to steel .yes..i am using gaskets..so they dont touch..takes years to react if done properly..my car is steel and ali panels..they are 40oyrs old...

iced water..its my daily runneraround!

now i am here...getting there..sc bolted down now (spare engine for mocking up)

well i was not going to bother, not at 8psi, but read the theory books abit and since a will no dought want more boost once i have uprated my rods an going ahead with ic.. now have looked at many on here,and all seem to be using air to water, ok i see that will be good at slow speeds, but most...