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Gloverman had first dibs and they went out today.

Got the... dry sump pump mounted, pump drive made (from a hunk of billet), accessory drive worked out, valve covers welded up, vacuum relief mounted, a spot ready for case vacuum gauge and other odds and ends. Now it’s time to have a go at casting that pan that I’ve been putting off.

The car has no insulation, door seals or side windows so max all the time would be great. I wonder what the max equates to and how to figure out which pins are which.

Aftermarket with IAC and manual TB. I have spare PWM outputs. I think they are rated at 2a. Also have spare inputs, so if I need to monitor temp and adjust PWM up/down that should be straight forward.

I'll take pics tonight

Does the early pump bolt on the same mount? I'm in the US and have checked early model LS400, SC400 and the Toyota Tundra (2UZ). All the compressors look like they have the solenoid for electronic variable vanes (in addition to the clutch). Can you point me to a specific compressor?

Don't have a 3UZ, but Google says this may be what you are looking for.

I have a couple laying around the shop. They are from JDM motors. We use aftermarket ECUs so have no use for them. Free to an individual that can use them (you pay shipping unless you pick it up). You can pick up in Fairview or Allen TX (DFW area). PM if you want pics. If you don't get a...

That simply is not true. We have (or have had) race cars with SBC Chevys, LS1, LS7 and 2GR and 1UZs. The 1UZ obviously has DOHC/Timing belt and MORE valves, but other than that is not any worse than the others. The current engine in my avatar car (OK the engine is out this week, but...), is...

I've decided to add A/C to my race car (OK, call me a wimp). Have a Vintage Air unit. Mounting of the Sanden compressor would be problematic. So I am planning on using the Toyota compressor. This is on a VVTi 1UZ. The A/C compressor has electronically variable vanes (as well as a...

This has to be the best street car upgrade. More power, less weight, no downside. The aluminum intake is so heavy. I’ll bet the high rpm power is largely because of the cooler intake charge.

Aren't those OBX ITBs for Non-VVTi engines? That's what I see in the ebay pictures. To the best of my knowledge the handful done have been custom. Which means if you cannot cast or machine your own, its BIG $$s.

Rod, I think we have a different idea of cheap and expensive fuel. Here in the US, up till recently your choices were generally pump gas up to 93 octane for about $3/gallon or race gas by the barrel at about $12/gallon (or Methanol at $3.50/gallon). I expect $12/gallon is expensive in most...

On the single vs twin turbo, I'm not 'the' expert. But the experts tell me with *modern* turbos, a properly sized twin scroll with proper exhaust (one bank feeding each side of the turbine) will spool slightly quicker than properly sized twin turbos. BUT they also say the difference is small...

If you are looking for 600hp, a lot of that is overkill. Assuming you use a VVTi engine (better heads), a decent ECU/rods/pistons/valve springs/head gasket/head studs and a moderate turbo will get you there easily and safety. No need for porting, larger valves, cams, etc which will save you...

13 degrees is huge! I’ve not done the math on how much one tooth in the cam pulley is, but the I’m guessing it’s in the teens. Timing the cams off a tooth might have gotten you closer! Any interest in a dry sump pan?

cribbj, On the motor that lifted the heads, had you surfaced the heads and or block? I went ahead and cut the heads 0.003" to get a good surface. That little should not noticeably effect cam timing, but did give a good surface.

On my engine, I plan on limiting boost/rpm on the current one. Looks for 600rwhp @ 7,000. On the second engine I’ll see what she will do. We mainly do open road racing with this car. Would like to have a “reliable” motor for that and a second motor to do some mile and road racing.