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The problem is that the bores in the throttlebodies from Carbontech are all over the shop. When EFI Hardware measured them up to make each butterfly they range from 44.2mm to 44.9mm. Also when I hold them up to the light the gaps aren't uniform so I don't think the bores are round. I've had...

Ed, will you be using stock cams or something a bit more aggressive? I'm having difficulty with sealing against the huge vacuum produced by the stock cams which is resulting in a high idle speed.

He he - filthy mind! I just found this in the old ALSC archive: "Intake valves open at 6 deg BTDC and close at 46 deg ABDC, and exhaust valves open at 46deg BBDC and close at 3 deg ATDC. This gives an intake duration of 232 deg, an exhaust duration of 229 deg and an overlap of 9 deg." P 8&9...

I've got an approximate length from the back of the valve to the top of the lower part of the manifold of 32cm then 7cm for the bit of the runner connected to the plenum. I measured it a few nights ago using the end of one of those bendy magnetic pickups.

Good stuff. Do you know what dimensions haven't been confirmed yet? If we have a list of what's needed it would help.

Good idea. I've been playing with the files you sent me MWP and I think it still needs some work as I put in the runner length of 330mm (390mm total - 60mm port length) which is more accurate but the torque and power figures are too low low in the rev range and not big enough. Great base to...

I measured the runner lengths last night - not hugely accurate as it's difficult to measure directly in the centre but I got 32cm from the back of the valve to the top of the lower intake manifold and 7cm for the part of the runner attached to the plenum so total length about 39cm.

An advantage of ITB's is that with different length trumpets (assuming you have room) you can tune where in the RPM range the pressure waves are most effective. For a circuit race car you'd probably want that to occur at peak power but for a rally car or road car where you're using a larger RPM...

Looks interesting from what can be gleaned from that single page website - how much was the unit?

Never heard of that one - got a link?

Also, if you're thinking of replacing the intake tube and removing the resonant chamber, read this first: http://planetsoarer.com/resonator/resonator.html It's easier to lose power than increase it by changing the intake.

You should be right with it on high all the time but your wheel alignment would have been set with it at normal height. I'm not sure how much difference there would be but you should get it checked if that's how you drive around most of the time. Only thing I'd be worried about is looking like...

I should point out that the main reason why I'm converting to ITB's is for a sharper throttle response. I'm not expecting much increase in peak power but it will help when I fit cams.

When I get mine completed and on the dyno I'll let everyone know. I have a "before" dyno sheet so we will be able to compare the differences.

I'm pretty sure the 98+ MAF is a hotwire one so it can't be swapped. With mine I had to increase the fuel but yours may be too rich if it's set up to work with NOS... can't really say. The culprit will more than likely be the way it was tuned, not the ECU or piggback. Best thing to do is get...

Mine's a 91 so I had the rectangular shaped metal one with the screen. I did notice the difference when I removed the MAF - the torque in particular as I can drive pretty much everywhere in traffic in 3rd & 5th gear. If you want the least restriction possible then removing the MAF is really...

Yep - the problem was that the middle part of my fuel map was too lean. I gradually increased the fuel in the middle of the table from about 800rpm-2500rpm until the hesitation went away. Was doing a lot of head scratching until I worked that out : ) When cruising it was always fine because it...

It's my understandig that the later model MAF is a hot-wire and not a karmann-vortex MAF. If so you can't swap them. I totally removed the MAF and replaced it with some 90mm diameter PVC pipe so there's no intake restriction at all. I bought a wideband O2 meter and tuned it myself but any dyno...

If you're talking about removing the MAF, I've removed it and have been running a MAP sensor based piggyback (MAP-ECU) on my V8 Soarer for the last 9 months and it's sweet. The only problem I had to start with was a hesitation when coming off a closed throttle but I was able to tune that out so...

The whole thing needs tweaking : ) Can't do any tuning until I work out why the ECU is spitting the dummy.