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The CT-26 is good for 16psi at it's peak efficiency and should flow about 260hp each, so 520hp plus or minus. The MK3 Supra uses a slightly larger ct-26 good for nearly 300hp each. The extra size will of course cause more lag though. If you want one, I have a ct-26 from my alltrac wrapped up in...

I've passed emissions running way more rich then 11:1 without a cat too. Just depends on if the emission place is a bunch of up-tight jerks or not. There is the required visual inspection, which they seem to be relaxed about.

The t-56 is a strong transmission, no doubt, but the V-160 is a TANK. I plan to use one and make an adapter if needed. Or how about this, if anyone else has an adapter for 1UZ to V160 and wouldn't mind scanning it at scale, or even drawing the adapter as long as it is perfectly to scale, I can...

Damn, wish I saw this earlier. I can get 90 1uzfe engines for under $500 SHIPPED

The t25 is more suited to a 1.5L engine, way too small unless you go quad-turbo on a 4L engine. And that is a big waste of time. There is more to properly sizing turbos then you could imagine.

I concur. Water is in fact a by-product of combusting air and fuel. Hydrocarbons (Gasoline) are split into water and carbon dioxide by the catalytic converter more then the engine itself. The converter basically just attaches an oxygen molecule to the offending pollutants by using heat, O2 and...

Thick-wall 304 is what we used for turbo manifolds when I worked at two different shops. The fact that it is thick gives it great heat retention and it has a pretty high melting rate, preventing sagging and cast metal's cracking problems. By thick, I am talking .25" thick. There is nothing wrong...

Looks good, I give much respect for adding fuel EQUALLY instead of throwing a couple big peak-n-hold injectors before the manifold. You will see the results of doing such on a dyno (by the pants too) once everything is tuned. 1st gen 3s-gte (88-89 Celica GT-4/All-Trac) injectors are top-fed...

I do, actually. You can hear a knock, even a slight one with your tuned ears. I have made a simple amplifier with a microphone that clips to my block so now I can hear EVERYTHING going on, from valves opening to closing, and fuel injectors opening to very very small knocks. Not even $10us and...

Flow Stock filter and "crazy bends" in the ducting seems to make airflow a bit shitty. Any way to make them more straight and I would definitly suggest getting a BIG K&N! The only thing that would be causing much of a restriction are any cats in the exhaust. And likely to be the muffler as...

This really depends on the turbo and how much power you want to make. A single 3" can flow enough for almost anything you will throw at it but if you are using a 4" dump-tube you might as well just run full 4" with a non-race type muffler to quiet it down. I've been looking into truck mufflers...

Lysholm even makes the Whipple chargers.

Actually it is JUST a CT-26, there is a CT-26B.. The CT-26B came on the ST-205 94+ GT-Four and the later MR2 Turbo as well (JDM only got these stock, we have to import them.) The CT26B has 7 turbine studs and and much improved wastegate. Some had ceramic turbines and others had steel. 50mm...

If all pipes are ceramic coated and then wrapped with some good exhaust manifold wrap there won't be a problem. I'd like to use one of those iR thermometers sometime to see the exact outside temp of coated pipes but I bet it is under 300f.

Mount it right before the Throttle Body, are you using a dry or wet shot? And is it the NOS kit or are you just calling it NOS? (NOS is a brand.)

CT26 from a toyota 3s-gte (Celica All-Trac or MR2 Turbo) were made for a 2.0L so two of those would work well. You'd be set for 500whp. I get full boost by 2800rpm. They are efficient on a 2L bank up to 16psi, stock boost is about 10psi.

For sure, to me it seemed like the centrifugal felt like it had turbo-lag because of the way it has to spool, just like a turbo. But once it spooled it was decent, I say if you are considering centrifugal, consider a turbo. I favor the roots over a centrifugal honestly. To each their own.

Before you settle on a charger, drive a car with it. As far as fuel economy goes, anything causing parasitic drag to the engine is going to effect it. Some are more efficient and cause less of an impact then others. I decided to go roots along with turbo(s) for top-end. I even went out and...

A twin-screw whipple is actually a lot more efficient (80%-85%) then a centrifugal. (60%-70% efficient) You get instant response, with top-end even better then most turbos can offer. I saw a real dyno from a newer cobra at 16psi. (http://www.mafterburner.com/Whipple_vs_Eaton.jpg) First was the...

My 1990 1uz came shipped to me and it weighed in at 250lbs. ;)