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Well, I'd still make it out of steam pipe. Simply for ease of construction. I don't think you're going to lose *that* much more heat, and if you are really worried about it, get the header ceramic coated when you're done. Probably not a bad idea anyway, as it would stop any rusting of the welds...

Thicker pipe pulls more heat out than thinner pipe.

Just a note... check out the TQ/HP graph on that Whipple page... http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/product.asp?ProdID=1204 The stock lines cross at 5252... but the Whipple lines don't! Fake!

Sweet, will go grab a lapping kit tomorrow and give it a go.. lucky I didn't quite finish putting it all back together last night! :)

Is it better to pull it back apart and do that, or just leave it in and hope the car wears it in for me? How would I do it, just by hand or what?

Oxygen is an oxidiser.. there is a difference.. toranamat is exactly right.

OK I've pulled my box apart, and now it's almost back together. The problem was 4th's synchro was sticking onto 4th after the #2 hub is shifted back to neutral. Looks to me like the synchro just works too well. Maybe it is new or something, the whole damn box looks pretty mint to me. The...

I intend on bridging the neutral start switch, and telling it that it is permanently in neutral, or maybe park. I think this will let me take the key out. It also needs resistors where the solenoids are, or it can get angry. As for the speed sensors, my R154 has a spinning gear output for a...

You know you'll need to decompress it, right?

Yep! Well, in the R150 family - not sure of any differences?? I believe some of them are 4WD too - they have a transfer case on the back. It has been raised on ALSC that there was a 4WD Aristo in Japan, that had a 1UZ, that could possibly have its front sump and axle grafted onto an SC400...

No, the N2O bottles explode when they heat them too much and the pressure inside goes too high. Obviously if you have seen a bottle go through a wall, you know how a cage cannot be "adequate" in the event of a crash. Have you read what I said above that you are going to see almost no...

I really don't want to pull it all apart if I can help it. The box looks to be in decent shape, except for the stuck synchro. For the price, I would rather fit it, and risk smashing the first gear thrust washer. Another box isn't that bad anyway. I figure with all the people who push good...

I've been reading up on Lincoln Electric's site. Looks like with a good strong welder (which I have.. 200A), and with some info on the standard the steam pipe meets, I should be able to buy wire to match. Looks like the steam pipe professionals weld it with some type of mig. Possibly gas...

OK the problem looks like 4th syncro is sticking to 4th. I need to pull the input shaft to see what is going on. Unfortunately, the 4th gear spline is slightly bigger than 4th, and catches on the 4th counter gear when pulling out the input shaft. I am going to see if I can take all the stuff off...

Ahh I gotcha... top exiting with side mounted coolers exhausting into runners.

Hey mycar... you mentioned the overhaul kit is expensive.. any idea how much? I'd really like to replace that thrust washer while it's all apart.. got a part number for the kit? Might see if I can get hooked up by a friendly Toyota guy in NZ.

*2* spare engines? How do you plan on using 2? That's awesome that it fits! Any chance of showing us what's inside? ie pull it apart piece by piece to show how the coolers fit in there etc.. got a manifold under there?

Keep in mind, where the gas does its expansion, is where it gets cold. If you regulate 3000 psi down to 150psi, then pass that through a hose into the engine bay, then release it on the intercooler, you'll only get the value of 150psi->14psi. You can see this by feeling a n2o bottle during a run...

Hopefully that's what mine will look like soon... Unfortunately I snapped two of the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the box... one has a good half inch hanging out.. I'll weld a nut on it and try again I guess, but I imagine the threads are buggered.. the other is flush :( I think that's...

Cool, that's about what I was thinking to get the input shaft out.. it already pulls out a little bit.. I am just a bit worried about how hard I'm gonna pull on it, as the sticking syncro also holds it on, but I have to pull hard enough to get that off... oh well, easy does it!