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If you put in 315cc injectors without tuning, your car will run rich and maybe stall. If you'll use piggyback ECU, then just leave the cold start injector there. But if you standalone ECU, then just remove it. In the case you'll use FMU, then just leave it there. Your stock ECU needs to see it...

I'm waiting to see the final dyno. :)

That's a real nice setup.

Yeah, you can cut and extend the wires. Just make sure you solder them carefully without making bigger joints or kink at the solder. The wires need to be straight and smooth to eliminate any increase in resistance (OHM). Heat shrink is a must to protect the joints.

You can contact http://www.altousa.com/ and ask for the Red Eagle master overhaul kit. I lost the receipt of what I bought, but here's the email I received from Alto. Again, you need to contact Alto directly for complete instruction on what parts to buy. "Yes, these parts fit both the A340E &...

I forgot to mention the ARP head studs to use. lol

It's better to go with Cometic head gaskets. If you plan to boost more safely, use slightly thicker head gasket to lower the compression. 460cc injectors from RX7 are all you need in addition to make 450 rwhp. I don't see the need to run e85, but it's up to you.

I didn't know the GS has returnless fuel system; therefore, it can't use FMU. Got to go with Gloverman here. :) In that case, a slightly bigger injectors are needed along with a piggyback ECU to tune them.

You should be able to use stock injectors. I've seen a few low boost setups without any extra fuel enrichment devices. But better to be safe rather than sorry, just install a FMU to raise the fuel pressure and install a high pressure high flow fuel pump. The setup will only raise up the pressure...

You should be able to boost to 6-7 psi of boost with stock engine. But make sure you enrich the fuel system or with fine tuning it.

Isn't that why there're machine shops out there that balance the custom beefy rods/cranks on the custom built engines? It's normal to put bigger rods and then balance.

Some guys just leave it like that without having CEL. Try that first. If the CEL comes up, then if I remember correctly, the resistor is either 10000 watts - 0.5 ohms, or the other way around.

The aluminum pan is harder to remove. You'll need to remove the steel pan first in order to access to the aluminum pan. Estimate for the access to the aluminum before removing the steel pan. If there's no access to the aluminum pan, then you'll need to take the engine out. By the way, if you...

The only easy way to remove the steel pan is to lower the sub frame by about 0.5 - 1". That's when you can slide out the pan. There's no other way to slide it out if the sub frame is up & tight. I took it out multiple times, so I learned of the hard way. Lol.

It should be better done on the upper pan. I believe the oil is up to the top of the steel pan when it's full. However, you can test that out by 1) making sure the engine is full of oil 2) draining the oil out 3) take out the steel pan and fill those used oil back. If the oil doesn't reach to...

2.25" is too big for each manifold. It'll slow down the velocity, thus it'll increase boost lag. I use only 1.75" from each manifold. But when both of them merge together, that's when I use 2.5". The shop that sells all mandrel pipes, all sizes, all angles, all shapes, flanges, are in...

Yep. I did everything by myself. The pipe that leads to the turbo is 2.5". I keep it that size to increase pressure flow. The downpipe is 3". You're in So Cal? I can tell you where to buy all mandrel pipes for cheap. Don't bother to buy online. Let me know if you need the info. I think it's...

I already caught my unicorn. Check this out.

Sounds like a zombie build! Keep them coming and I'll pull the trigger. Lol. 1) The last time I opened up the engine was 4 years, so I don't remember exactly how the oil filter pipe is routed inside. Maybe someone else can chime in here. 2) Why would you need a separate engine oil cooler...

That's the nice manual tranny setup. I bought a set of Prothane bushing kit for the rear as well, but I decided to buy the fluid urethane to make my own bushings with 1 step softer than the bushing kit. As regarding to your concern about the strength of the chassis, it should be good enough to...