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Ran out of selections for the poll. Had to put it somewhere and would have caught more grief for putting it in North America. Although with all the Spanish speaking folks in the US now, I probably should have put the US in South America too!

I don't disagree with you, but some vendors still refuse to use email to any degree.

Bullet haven't set the standard in the past for responsiveness by email, as so many people email without buying. Suggest you try calling them.

I've been told, by people supposedly in the know, that the Richwood manifold, and several other "no name" manifolds were all cast at the same foundry, and different people put their own labels on them. Have no idea if this is true, but it may prompt some of the other old timers to chime in -...

Sounds like a baby on the way or a newer, bigger house :) Don't bail on us Justen!

Is that manifold for the early 1UZ or late UZ's (interchangeable with 1/2/3UZ)?

Mike, you have the coolest toys to play with there!

Ally wears too fast unless it's anodised. Having said that, the supercharger kit manufacturers used to offer them (idlers, and drive pulleys, etc.) Endevour Engineering (NZ) offer(ed) a Gilmer kit for the UZ's: http://www.endevourengineering.co.nz/1jz-2jz-gilmer-pulley-kit-xidp390397.html

Mine had only 3

Looks good!

No doubt you've discovered that the plates don't seal well on the F&R ends of the valve cover - so I had my ends welded and built up to provide a sealing surface, and I ran 4-5mm thick foam weatherstripping around the bottom edges of the plates to better seal them.

That should work, if you don't need much of a "mechanical" connection between the coil & plug, which in this case probably isn't important. You'll be using the coil hold down brackets won't you? You'll want to inspect the coil & plug terminals after running to see if there's any arcing or...

Every plate will be a bit different, depending on the coil hold-downs. The C/C distances of the COP holes are just the cylinder bore spacing, which is 105.5mm, IIRC. Give some thought on how you want to weatherproof those holes (or not). You'll also probably need to fabricate some extenders...

Alan, which COP's did you go with? Putting the heads & connectors above the valve cover can get messy, as then all the harnessing is outside the valve cover. It does have the advantage, however, of keeping the heads "out" of the engine and in cooler air. This can be important for the longevity...

I've used the COP's for the Tundra with good success 90080-19027 and they held up under 20+ psi of supercharger boost. Others have used Suzuki Hayabusa motorcycle pencils coils. The Tundra coil is a "smart" COP with the ignitor integrated onboard. The Hayabusa bike coils are dumb coils and...

Yea, sorry, I should have provided a bit of background. The A340 in the Supra was a "built" unit, done up by one of the more reliable and well known Supra shops. It's been in the car for nearly 10 years and has performed well, but its shifts are very harsh. The adverts for it call them firm...

George, I'm interested to hear how you get on with it. I have an A340E in my son's Supra (my old black one) that will need repair/replacement soon.

Jake, I missed this earlier post of yours, but just wanted to thank you for your contribution to the community. We need more folks like you.

No, I'm referring to the front dampner, aka harmonic balancer. There are three parts to these dampners, an inner steel core, an outer steel pulley, and an elastomer middle section that bonds the inner core with the pulley. With age, the elastomer dries out, cracks, etc. and the dampner...

The two symptoms may or may not be related, but there's three possibilities IMO: 1. You may have reversed the crank sensor wires when you resoldered them. This could have caused the ignition timing mark to shift, but it shouldn't have produced the noise you hear. 2. You may have jumped a...