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As a supercharged 1UZ owner I would go turbo and save a heap of bother. I think a simple rebuild with a turbo or two would give you what you want without the heat issues,

Sorry for slow response, been away. If you used the same engine loom that was in the car and ECU it should run. I know there are different igniter modules between different models but if you keep all the 96 sensors, loom and igniters I can't see why it won't run. I'm guessing a missed ground...

To date no one seems to have done what you want. I have an additional sensor in my cooling system that tells me the temp and has for the last 15 years. Adding a temp sender isn't hard and worth it.

As best I/we know they interchange.

Did you swap the engine loom as well? If not I'd try that. Sounds like you have matched the ECU to the Sensors but what connects them isn't doing it's job, as it isnt the same as the original engine had.

6 minutes of boost will take you a long way. Most on boost use would be for seconds only. If you were going up a mountain path I could see that extending to minutes. The big issue would the recovery rate as you then be driving with less power than normal due the drag of the alternator trying...

I'm not sure I can se the benefit of an electric turbo over a simple turbo set up. Right now I'm in the middle of adding a T28 to an SR20DE in my son's car. It will cost me around Australian $2,000 and I can get from 150FWHP to around 300 without opening the engine. For around $5,000 I could...

I can't imagine why the ABS would be linked to the transmission. I've removed ABS from a few cars and they still drive OK. Why not pull the ABS fuse and go for a drive?

If you can source a low supercharger manifold you should be good. The M122 isn't much taller than the stock intake and plenum. Time to break out the tape measure and google the parts you want to ascertain their dimensions. This is a big part of the fun of engine swaps.

I'm not up to speed on VVTi but if you used early LS400 fuel rails you would have the built in FPR and all you would need to do is run a fuel return line from the fuel rail. No idea if they will fit but worth looking into.

think you will find the spacer is an interference fit on the shaft. I'd try heating the spacer and it should slide over the input shaft with little on no violence. I think some careful measurement is in order. As it's a Cruiser kit it may not even need the spacer on a 1UZ. I can't say with...

I've googled the kit and from what I can glean the circled component (may be) intended to slide over the input shaft to increase it's diameter to match the spigot bearing. I'd be trying the bearing on the input shaft to confirm it's the correct size, without the sleeve. It could also be...

If you search this Forum you will find a build I did where I threw the equivalent of US$30,000 at a supercharged 1UZ and certainly didn't get anywhere near 1,000HP, flywheel or wheels. Further searching will find a Doctor in Sydney Australia who built a super high revving N/A engine with the...

As far as I know there was never a flat plane crack made. Jibby was a real character but quite challenged mechanically. I don't think had any idea of the pros and cons of a flat plane crank. Arnout was (I think) Norwegian, but Scandinavian anyway, and he was trying to fit a 1UZ into a 4wd...

I've got to ask; why do you want a LHD column? Just use the RHD one on the other side of the car. The control stalks are usually the same for LHD and RHD.

Keep in mind the Rover engine is small in outside dimensions to the UZ family. I have a 1UZ in Range Rover Classic and the standard radiator has done a good job, even when I ran a highly modified and supercharged IUZ. The pedal box depends on what clearance you have from the Cylinder head...

Can't help with the year model but M90's haven't proven to be all that good at giving meaningful performance increases.

I would lean toward Link as they have been used a lot on 1uZs

The only real option is a stand alone. Piggybacks are overridden by the factory ECU after a period of time. Unlike most other manufacturers Toyota was too smart for us modifiers and build an ECU you can't hack. I'm surprised after 20 years of people working on them no one has come up with a hack.

Depends how far you're looking at going to get to 500WHP, which equates to roughly 700FWHP. A not inconsiderable amount of power from 4.3 litres. When chasing that sort of power I would want low compression pistons plus far better rods than stock early 1UZ. Do a lot of research before...