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Low idle is common after disconnecting power to ECU. IT usually sorts itself out after a bit of running. Minutes not hours.

What you need is a frequency converter. Whilst I haven't checked ebay may produce something from China, if you don't mind using their junk, but it may be an option to explore. Electronics stores will sell a kit or complete item at a better price than what you find on car parts sites.

I'd say early Crown engine. A JDM import.

There's a guy called Kevin who lives in Leith who is putting a 1UZ into a Ford Thames Doormobile. Try Googling for him as I don't have an address.

The non-grounding of the igniters would be the biggest cause of 1UZs not firing in all the start ups on this Forum. You did well to track it down.

An EFI car won't shoot flames unless it's tuned to do it and that will never happen on a stock ECU. If you wanted to do it (for God only knows why) powering the Cold Start injector may make it run rich enough the ignite the exhaust. Cutting the injectors off is the exact opposite of what you...

Try searching trawling this Forum as there was an Aussie guy (I think 400Z) named Stirling who had a 1UZ in his. He didn't do the swap himself but check out his posts it may help.

Jibby hasn't been on here for a few years. No maybe a lot of years. 50Hp is a lot to get out of cams. These engines respond better to forced induction better than an NA attempts.

Why not just jump the pins on the relay socket so power flows. It may be quick and dirty but it will prove if the relay is the problem or not.

I had a similar problem with my LS3 powered toy. Accelerate hard and it would lose the Crank position by going hi or low impedence at is will. Found a chaffed wire in the loom that was causing it. Your problem sounds like a broken wire that pulls apart on acceleration or a bad ground. I'd...

It will sound like a flat plane crank and not give you anything power wise but perhaps a lot of grief with sealing them up.

The Post was too big for the Forum. Here's part two. The tacho will only read half the revs the engine is doing as it only looks at half the engine. KDog did a post about using some diodes to make it read both igniters. This may be worth searching for. I’d search under “diode” and see what...

Whilst iIve replied privately ths will give everyone else something to read. Range Rover engine swap This is a ramble about fitting the 1UZ-FE into my Range Rover. Let’s start by stating the car is not a standard Rangie. It has an English aftermarket body kit on it that changes the space...

I'd go thick rods. There's a thread somewhere in here on a 1UZ revving to 10,000rpm.

This may help but the photos have been lost along the way. https://www.lextreme.com/forums/index.php?threads/stroker-rod.7814/

Sorry, I'm an old guy and my memory doesn't work that well any more and it was a long time ago. Try a search as there were quite a few Threads on increasing capacity.

I think we will need a lot more information to offer much help. What is the engine, what year, is it modified and what's it in. Then what have you tried to diagnose the problem.

I think you will find the concept didn't translate too well into reality. I seriously doubt you would find any parts around now.

If you build in heaps of power the beast will become undrivable. I had around 650hp in my Range Rover and all it did was spin the 12.50x35 tyres. I went back to a stock 1UZ and I'm much happier. I sold my built engine for 10Cents in the Dollar on build cost. Building a tough 1UZ gets VERY...

Interesting. I probably have a different screen as I can Moderate the posts. I'll talk to the Admin team and see what he deal is.