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Shouldn't be a problem. If someone can send me a stock one it might help, saves me trying to locate one. What material? 6061 will do the job easily, 7075 if you really want. It would be better if people had them anodised in their own location, we don't have many local annodisers and I...

Don't bother with stuff you see at wreckers or at auto stores. Get a proper oil cooler from a proper transmission specialist. A brand like Serck make some very good coolers in a variety of sizes and fittings. They are available from www.capa.com.au Whilst it is legal to tow that weight with...

Sorry didn't see the NOS part. For NOS you would probably want to make sure your spark was working properly if that means you put in a CDI unit then go that way. For ease of use I would say CDI is the way to go. Note with the 1uz you can put in a 2 channel CDI and use the dizzys, plugs...

Most people actually do see a gain back to back on the dyno (when testing on a dyno is done properly which is hard to achieve). You are correct, the gain was because you either cahndged the tuning or in the process you fixed something in the ignition system. Unfortuantely your situation has...

There's only three brands I use and recommend, Autronic, EFI technology and Motec. As for ignitions you can add M&W to that list.

If you have the units in front of you its very easy to prove for any electronics tech. All of which is irrelevant because the spark energy the unit provides will be more then enough for pretty much every situation ie you shouldn't let it stop you from purchasing the unit if you so desire.

There is no advantage, other than lightening your wallet. MSD is never an upgrade, accel are lieing about their spark abilities. There is no reason to change the ignition system on a stock engine. Your money would be better spent repairing your current ignition ie new leads, rotors, caps...

MAPs are not handed out for a reason. 1. They are for that specific setup and no other. Using them on another setup could be catastrophic. 2. The instructions have a method of building a base map which will be safe to use. If you have an Autronic ECU then the manual is the place to search...

It should give a pulse when No1 cylinder is at TDC. If there is any offset you can adjust it out in the SM4 software using the menus; M1 - Engine setup - I/P Cylinder & sync - Cylinder input lead. You shouldn't need to though.

I would check that the injectors are getting +12V. The ground of each injector is switched by the ECU.

What things have you done so far? What car is it? What mods does it have? Usually its an ignitor problem if the car won't rev that high, or some ignition problem. Also if your ignition leads are bad or they have become pinched together under the covers somewhere then it will also cause...

Either laser or plasma should be fine for anything automotive. Can't imagine there would be too many situations which might arise where you would need something beefier. Having said that I might go play with both of mine at work tomorrow. Also the temp controlled CNC hasn't had my hands near...

A blade fuse fits nicely to short out the neutral start switch.

Dean, Yeah thats the easiest way to do it, if you have a GPS its very easy. John, Where does the Supra normally get its input from? So long as its from the coil or from an ignitor the Jaycar unit should be fine. If it normally gets its signal from the ECU then it may be a problem.

The TPS isn't a problem. Its a normal 3 wire TPS ie +5V power, Ground and position out. The 4the wire is an idle switch to ground. Brown - Ground Blue/Red - +5V Signal is one of the other 2, not sure from the top of my head. A multimeter will tell you very quickly. For idle speed control...

Sorry to hear Pete, If i checked the site whilst I was away (gold coast) i would have gone door knocking for you....with some very large friends of mine. ps: sorry i didn't call or come over, time was not on my side during this trip.

I have bought and installed many M&W ignitions over the years. They are a class act all over.

if you need help Ed give me a buzz.

I would use the sensor as a differential signal, hook up both wires. This is if you can. What do the wires do at the ECU end? Do they both go into the ECU or does one loop off to a ground wire? If so then you know which wire to use for signal. What is best for the sheild comes down to your...

You wire up both internal wires to the sensor, and then solidly mount the sheild to ground on the engine somewhere close to the sensor and the same at the ECU end.