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The diff is an R200 from a skyline so it should be up to the task. I'm more worried about the transmission though! Tyres are a consumable item

Roads are dry today and the sun is shining I changed the wastegate to the 14psi spring today and took it for some self-tuning. Mixtures are fat and the long-term trim is progressively bringing them down. Throttle response is improving, timing is very safe, and zero knocks detected. So, how does...

If the ECU is registering a loss of signal on IGF, it will cut the injector until the signal returns. It's programmed to do this to protect the cat converters from melting. ECUs, coils and igniters aside, this can be caused by a poor connection, open circuit or short circuit on IGF. Get a scope...

Air flow meter and igniters

B - High amperage Alternator output to the battery IG - Switched ignition input that powers up the charging circuit S - Sensing line - input for measuring the battery voltage L - Lamp - provides a ground to the charge lamp. It senses when the lamp is on and triggers the circuit to start...

There shouldn't be any relays required to make the alternator work.

Long time, no 1UZ. Work, home, holidays and a new dog all mean it's been months since I've touched the car... plus it's been freezing cold in the garage. There has been progress in the last two weeks though: Purchased a full OE system for a 328i (twin 2"), a y-pipe and some mandrel bends Cut...

Caslemaine Rod Shop makes universal mounts. Dellow make 1UZ to Hilux transmission adaptors. With that, you'll have the engine in place... then it's just a case of sump, exhaust, cooling, intake and wiring. The conversion is fairly common and there should be heaps of info out there. And probably...

Where did you measure the 11.7 volts at?

Looking at the DTC guide, 14 is triggered when the ECU doesn't get the IGF (Ignition Feedback) pulse from Igniter#1, 8-11 times consecutively. Code 15 is the same thing, but for Igniter#2. The ECU responds by stopping fuel injection as a failsafe. Trouble areas can only be: wiring (open or...

Don't go too big with the turbo then - the extra distance from exhaust to turbo, then turbo to inlet, will affect response. Wrap as much of the exhaust as you can, as hotter gasses have higher velocity. Keep your inlet return pipe away from the exhaust. This build might give you some good...

T4 frame turbo is not necessary at this target power range. I'd recommend a 3584 if you want to have room to go further in the future. Its what I'm using. If you want quick response, a 3071 will do the trick but will choke the engine if you try to push it further. Why rear mount?? There is...

Misfires are mostly due to fuel or spark dropping out, but can be caused by a range of issues like EGR leaks Vacuum leaks Carbon buildup Crappy fuel Cracked spark plugs If you can get the engine to the point where its misfiring consistently, pull injector connectors off one by one and see...

Glad to hear you got it sorted, and that there are decent units readily available. Interesting that its the same part number for the Falcon... Should be able to handle the power of 1UZ easily.

The ABS pump should only ever operate when brake lockup is detected. Under normal braking, it is switched off.

If the aftermarket one you used started cracking, I'd guess its either very old stock (and the rubber has hardened over time), or it was just a cheap knock off. It also depends on your application... drifting, clutch kicks, etc are going to hammer any coupling. Also, if you are...

Not from personal experience, but Hardy Spicer are known for supplying parts to many car/truck companies that are then on-sold as genuine. Its a brand I would trust.

Hardy Spicer

High effort and low braking power normally starts with the brake booster. You should have large vacuum line running from the intake manifold to the booster. Pull it off with the engine running - it should create a large intake leak. If it doesn't, check the hose for obstructions or collapse...