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iirc the egr is on the side of the intake... I took mine out (race car)

Goid info, but It's on a race car, so doesn't matter

Not sure on vapor pressure sensor... I pulled all egr stuff and blocked off the holes, and cut out traction control with no problem.

So this is in my race car... I know on my old EFI (Bosch based Toyota setups), the o2 didn't do anything at higher rpms.. what's the impact of having them out or not working in a race setting?

Thanks... Wheels look good BTW... I put Enkei's RFP1s on and they work really nice (8.5 & 9" wide)

Can you expand on that? Maybe a pic of where you put the resistor and what value? (I took all that stuff out, and don't know where that sensor is). My fuel economy is terrible (but I run it WOT all the time), so any improvement would be a huge deal

just measure with string. That's what I did anyway.. then went to the parts store, asked for about that length with the same number of ribs... Don't have the number handy, but easy enough.

Nice... 76' ish? This was my last track day... Its a 1uz in its original home ;)

Should be 1-3, 4-2.... But not enough room in there to do it I'm sure... Regardless, the fab and detail work is top notch. I've done several motor swaps and this looks like a high standard to me....

Very high quality work... nice Job!

IIRC I'm at 3200 with a full tank of gas.... If you change ride height, you really should have the alignment checked. I just do it at home, but have cross checked my work several times and do just as good as a shop. Alignment depends on what you want. I want to (and do) fling it into the corners...

Keep the stops. Lowering an inch is no problem. Its easy in fact, to put any spring rate you want with a coilover kit and some standard 8" race springs - I like Eibach or Rockwell, but have an uber cheap $30 full kit of adjusters/springs off ebay on my LS - also have the Bilsteins, but they are...

All depends on your goals. For a fast balanced car, your engine and mod choices er, um.. might not be the most efficient... A turbo 4 would make more sense in that car.. heck a S2000 drivline would be amazing in that car and a whole lot cheaper.

Yeah, not doing any of the ancilleries. I planned on the shifter too. Another option is to just build out the 98 and sell my 91 which might be slightly less work.

I have a 91 race car, and a line on a super cheap 98' vvt and am considering a driveline swap (mostly for the 5 speed, but extra HP can't hurt either). I already swapped the diff, so that's no problem as its already done ;) Any "gotchas" into yanking the engine, trans and engine/cluster wiring...

Thanks, but the real question is, will the lex senders drive aftermarket gauges directly, or do you have to replace senders and wiring too?

I'm thinking to do the same, but prolly a huge job. Full engine, trans and engine/trans wiring harness I'm thinking. the 4 speed is lame, so if you are going through all the trouble, may as well do the 5 speed too...

Good info - also, engines today are much higher compression than the old days, which isn't boost friendly without careful tuning; might blow an engine or two unless you are doing all this with a good ecu and lots of dyno time. If you want it bad enough, just have a machine shop whip one up for...

** Edit ** its not about junk or not, its about every plug and wire with a running engine so I start from a known good baseline. I did that with my 20v vvt motor I put in my MR2, and anything else is a nightmare of wiring which is not my speciality... if you can show it run on the floor (which...

Hmm.. If I could see it run, I'd probably take it... can get cheaper local, but then have to pull it myself.... too far to run over there and have a gander. Rats.