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that nut is tight I pulled the engine out and put it in the back of my van and took it to a truck tyre shop there air wrenches battled a bit but it did come loose ! it is stupidly tight once its loose its a walk in the park to remove the actual pulley loosen that nut heat didnt help...

have you got the big tight nut undone yet ?

speaking of crank pulleys - does anyone have the dimensions - good enough for CAD or a CAD drawing of one ? I need to make my pulley larger to get more belt grip to hopefully solve belt slip issues

any new updates on this ?

I had similiar rpm misfiring and refusing to rev over 3k rpm (I have thread on here about it) I ended up putting a resistor on the signal line from the crank pos sensor - to me it seems as is there was an impedance mismatch of the oem vr sensor to the ecu - try it - it takes seconds to solder a...

my vote is for solid mounts - I was sceptical but believed in my engineer frined when he told me the vibration would be minimal - the 1UZ is a smooth motor and I am glad I went with solid mounts - I used the oem aluminum castings swapped left to right bolted straight to a welded on flat mount on...

its got a manual 5speed bolted to the back of it - I am curious to know how the drivetrain impacts the belt - shift shock ?

Hi - thanks for the ideas I will post a pic up over the weekend of the latest config in short its the pulley blower at the highest point - going to an idler pulley below it - then over the std tensioner - over the alternator - to the crank - from the crank up to a small idler centred where...

Well I knew the belt was slipping but I ran it on the dyno anyway results are 295wnm / 141 wkw and its an absolute blast to drive at .1bar - I cant wait for .7bar or more ! ! !! ! unopened jap motor of unknown everything auto rotor 3150 supercharger - no intercooling when the belt...

go to gotech.co.za - in the download section they have a 1UZFE map download the map and the dealer tune 5.4 software but its really simple at idle and for say 1500 rpm from idle keep timing at 15 deg then every 500 rpm increase it by 2 deg so at 2k rpm = 17deg at 3k rpm = 21 at 4k rpm = 25...

if its insured and it catches fire - let it burn the damage and consequences thereof are more painful to deal with than crash damage

get hold of bullet cars - they make an "extender" and its literally plug n play - I am sure if you had a custom length needed they could accomodate easily enough

hi there isnt anyone doing supercharger kits locally - I got mine in from Richwood in australia if i were to do it again I would buy an Eaton or 2 off ebay get custom fabrication done locally in SA and call it a day it would cost about 25% of the imported kit cost

the results are in I borrowed an oscilloscope from a very clued up friend (he came free to help drive the scope) the signal at idle was crystal clear however as soon as the revs increased the singal ot weaker and weaker and the ecu would then by default retard the timing we tried shaving...

that little miss could be a duff (ish) plug duff (ish) spark lead duff (ish) dizzy cap/rotor or it could be the ecu just checking the closed loop air fuel ratio settings and the lambda may be on the way out try regap the plugs - reseat the plug leads - clean all connectors

hiya without there beign vacuum advance on a dissy or bob weights there isnt a curve you need to get the ignition table from a running 1uzfe with a different ecu and view that and then enter those details into the perfect power setup - try the standalone ecu section - there are a few maps in...

ms1/extra on 029w firmware no synch light rpm is fine at idle and above idle i think i will just fit a hall sensor seems to fix many things but i really wanted the oem to work for simplicity

he devo thanks for the reply ok at idle the timing "seems" spot on and follows the map or if i use fixed advance it follows that on the crank pulley if I blip it lightly it follows and stays true to the map if i blip it harder to go above 3k rpm or on the road at 3k rpm it all farts and bangs...

Hi All I am getting tach spikes and drop out on my megasquirt install and am lookign to find out what crank sensor you used and how was it wired ? I replaced the 12 tooth wheel with a 36 -1 wheel and the oem sensor now either my sensor is bad or I got it wired wrong or the wiring is the...

nice ! I am sure Franco Sbaro or however its spelt would approve