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We should probably continue this discussion in the hang outs section. I've just started this thread: http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?p=79783#post79783

Hi all, we're looking at having a meet up in early 2008. Let us know if you're keen: So far there's: Muzza_NZ 4000GT drifty325i

Hi Riley, I reckon a meet up early on in the new years, as we're off up north to spend Christmas with family as of tomorrow. I've spent the last 5 nights straight setting up to get the RX7 running before I leave so that Chris can keep working on it while I'm away; hopefully it will be running...

Dyno readout comparison Hi all, a few months back I had my ute on the NZEFI dyno. Since Drifty has the same gearbox (so I'll assume the same losses) I thought I'd overlay the two dyno results for comparison (same scale) My ute has a 92 crown in it (215cc injectors, stock everything, log...

So Drifty, on your dyno sheet it had 279.1 as the maximum HP, how did they 'fudge' that number to get flywheel values? did they just assume 20% losses through gearbox etc? I'm curious as this all seems a little haphazard at best...

Modified drivers side exhaust Howdy all, here are some pics of how we had to modify the drivers side header to fit around the crappy RX7 steering box. In hind sight it probably would have been better to convert to rack and pinion... You can see that the header hugs the block quite nicely...

That's freaken awesome Riley, I'm very impressed.

Hi Simon, we used the flange plates off the standard one and had to build up a custom header as none of the stock ones would fit. Chris made it up using several donuts and parts of the original, it tucks in just under top of the box, and clears quite nicely. One of the exhaust studs is too long...

that's an impressive turn around if you can get it all done and pretty by Jan 3rd! We'd originally planned on getting this project finished by early November, but that didn't happen, so best guess now is probably early January for certification... would probably be sooner but the holiday season...

Hi Simon, that's interesting, the hilux diff fitted up no problems at all. Mind you the 9" is a tad larger than the hilux one and it looks like your watts linkage mount is further to one side. We got the guys at Royce Clive Engineering to change all of the mounts over, as they had a full jig...

Got the hilux diff in over the weekend, so we can now move it round again. It needs some 20mm spacers on each wheel to get the width exactly the same as the front, but that's no biggie. The drive shaft should be done by this weekend coming so we're pretty much sorted as far as drivetrain goes...

I had the same problem on a different car a few years ago, and it was actually due to uneven brake pad wear on the front. I replaced the front pads and the problem was solved. If you have brake shudder felt through the steering wheel, I'd check the front ones first.

Damnit, I can't edit my last post for some reason. So ok, from this post here: http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4201 it appears that the bearing is the same as that used for the R154.

Ah, sorry, I'm not sure what bearing suppliers you have near you. I just typed 6201 into the NTN America bearing website and it came up with this...

FYI: that's an SKF part number with 32mm OD, 12mm ID and 10mm depth.

If by pilot bearing you mean the idler bearing that sits in the inside of the 1UZ crank to take the weight of the gearbox input shaft, I used Part number 6201 – 2RSH.

On the stock crown ecu, you're not making much power after 5000rpm anyway, so there's probably not much to be gained by revving that high.. http://lextreme.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6180&d=1187132862 Well that's been my experience with the stock ecu anyway. Muzz

A quick update on our progress. The wiring is in, and I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out. We spent way more time than expected running all of the wires, it was better to take it slow and make sure that they were all completely hidden than rush and make a f%$k up somewhere along the way...

Howdy Big, use the ecu to start the fuel pump/relay and the ignition switch (in on position) to power up the ignitors/injector 12V feed etc - often a good idea to hide a kill switch in the feed to the ignitors etc as well (good theft protection) Muzz

You don't actually need it, the motor will run fine with only high speed. If you do want to use the resistor you might need to make some rough calculations - My assumptions are that on low speed the resistor drops the voltage to 9V and that your pump on 12V is rated at 5A. That means you need...