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JZA80 supra uprights have a 25mm shorter arm??? interesting... seems the supra has better ABS as well....

and road tuned Motec doing fuel only...

you might find this useful http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14428

also the MAF sensors are very prone to contamination (oiled filters are VERY BAD) and trying to clean them tends to make things worse!

what are your mixtures through the rest of the rev range? what injectors and have you checked fuel pressure?

depending on the aftermarket ecu your fitting it should be no problem, i did this with my motec and still have the factory ECU doing idle control! but i still have all the sensors connected to the factory ecu.

Nice numbers! do you know what your air intake temp was?

is your 1uz a VVT-i model?

was that without valve gear and dry cam bearings?

any more progress?

looks like a mix of A340 and A650 connectors in those photos both are technically soarer autos! check the little blue plates on the side of the autos, the shifter position switches can be swapped between transmissions but you can't run a 4 speed auto on a 5 speed loom or vise versa

www.bulletcars.com.au

this is what i have with two 2.5 lukey race mufflers into a single 3 inch lukey race... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQlVRGlOaFU Excuse the "I ran out of gas for the MIG" welds...

how do you suppose to get a reliable 10% fuel change with a narrow band O2 sensor? adjusting the fuel table with a wide band sensor on the road is the best way to get fuel economy, giving a narrow band sensor the power to effect a 10% change will just turn to crap! most manufacturers give a...

you can block a whole range out for sure, but there is no nice way of doing it on a dyno to account for aero loading, road gradients and all the other variables you don't get sitting on rollers with a fan pointed at the car

I'm currently running my cressida without AIT or O2 feedback no problems at all! factory O2 sensors are an emission control sensor not for power or economy... fuel economy is not something you can set on the dyno, its a road tune thing, get yourself something like the NGK wideband and then in...

you need to have the nut fully engaged plus one or two threads before you start torquing it down or your torque readings will be incorrect

the other option is to take a little out of that pocket with an end mill, but I have not sectioned a head to know how much meat there is in that area, If you could drop the seat even 1mm I would be happy with at least a couple of threads out of the nut...

No, you want a JZA80 supra or UZZ3x SC400/SC300 diff, the rear mounts will bolt strait up, then just fabricate two brackets for the front mounts

the LS400 is a nice cruiser, never designed as a manual and clutch kicking is for underpowered drifter wannabe's :P with a nice blower set-up you will easily overpower the "grip" provided by the LS400 irs. fitting a manual will see you replacing diff's, subframes, axles and clutchs, shift kit...