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It sounds.... strange. Doesnt have any V8 note to it at all. Is it a sign of well tuned headers?

Thanks all. Ill see if i can find a 1JZ or 2JZ alt at less than the $240 the wreckers here want for a 1UZ alt. Any ideas on the tensioner under the alt? Jibbby - The 1UZ is going into a 1977 Celica, no PS and no AC.

Hi guys, Im refreshing my 1UZ at the moment, and came across this photo: Has anyone done something similar? Im looking for ideas on alternators from other engines + brackets i can use since my 1UZ didnt come with an alt attached :( Thanks.

LOL, nice rant jibbby. So youll sell your car and start walking everywhere?

Imagine the possibilities that would come with owning that machine :O Since when have engine blocks been produced with a chisel and hammer??

Its a decent amount higher due to the taller inlet manifold. Im not sure about width or length.

I knew they changed to A series at some point, but didnt know when :paranoid:

Ah, ok, so T series are 6.7" then... no wonder they are so weak. Real JDM 70's GT Celicas with 18RG's got F series. Im not sure about the USA delivered 70's Celicas. All 70's Celicas delivered to Aus had T series :(

Sounds like you need to start categorising them by Toyota diff series letter, ie: T series - 7 inch (i think) F series - 7.5 inch G series - 8 inch A series - 8 inch The G series centers are used in most Hilux diffs (some are F series), all Supras (i think) and probably all 1UZ powered...

Its MWP, im not valuable ;) Because 5 years is hardly "lifetime of the car". It takes a good 15 years or more for standard rubber hoses to start hardening and become prone to failure. Just because they look good, doesnt mean they havent started to degrade. Even the worst condition hoses can...

Thats bollocks. Hoses go hard/brittle over time due to heat. No covering is going to stop that. Covering such pipes with SS braid is for looks... nothing else.

EBC Greens are ok... they are nothing special. They are good for fast road use, but definitely no good for track work (go red or yellow). Green's also gum up quite a bit, so you cant use them with slotted rotors.

Yup... sounds like your expecting miracles. Dust and squealing is the price you pay for having high performance pads. Either get used to it, or install bigger/better calipers & rotors so you can run softer (everyday) pads but have the same braking performance. BTW, there are different versions...

Hi all, Now i have the 1UZ from the halfcut home and on an engine stand, what kind of prep work should i be doing to it before its installed in the car? To be approved for rego, it needs to look 100% factory (so all emissions gear and intake piping & filter). This is the list ive come up with...

Are they EBC Redstuff Ceramics? If so you got them at a very good price.

#1 #2 #3 #4

Got the halfcut running today. Kicked over and ran first time after we discovered the EFI relay was missing. Ran it for 2mins (had no radiator) then did a comp test. All came up good at 180-190 psi. Thanks for the help fellas.

Thanks guys, Oh, as it doesnt have an alternator or aircon comp, im guessing it wont have a fan belt. Will that be a problem?

Ok, they are going to let me start it up before buying it in thier yard. Do i need anything to start the half cut besides fuel pump, battery, wiring & fuel hose? Anything else i need to do?

Well im thinking the cyl1 pressure of 180 is due to some oil in there. Its the only reason why it would be so high with the engine cold. The small importer where the 1/2 cut is located say they dont have the gear to get it going (fuel pump, etc). They will give me a warranty on it.