Search results

Great project!! One day I will do the same as you do…

As Zen said, why it's not connected before MAF. Also, check the fuel pressure.

The early 1UZ can show 270HP on wheels with such modification. I believe 400FWHP is doable on VVTi engine.

Thanks, that is helpful

Conguratulatuion !!

Good to hear that you solve the problem ...

I’ve try to connect the PC to 42" LCD. The VGA quality was very bad The DVI and HDMI show huge difference with good quality. But you have set away from the monitor since it will not be very clear due to the fact that the TV LCD has less density of pixel comparing with PC LCD.

Check the MAF…. Disconnect it and start the car and see if it will idle fine. Next to check the fuel pressure ~ 44 PSI

any idea???

That Hilux worth some good money here. I believe that you have big traction problem with that tiers… right?

You could wire it directly from the selector plug. "NOT going to ECU" I can't remember the color of the wires... But, you could put 12v on the main wire "thick one" and see which one will have power when in R position.

I'm having the same question … But, many people have run manual box and for sure they delete the engine speed sensor. What you think

Do the oxygen sensor failure cause that… If I disconnect the sensors totally…. What is the symptom I will see. Could someone try that before?

The 2UZ fan bracket will be direct fit – I've install it myself- look for Landcruiser or LX470 parts dealer.

I would think about M90 on that engine… it will be much cheaper than vortech.

Hi John, I find that the fuel pump jumper hose inside the fuel tank leaking too much causing pressure drop. Now the power is good through the whole band and its start right away from the first crank… BUT, Just after it start it will idle fine for a second then it seems that the ECU try to fix...

If you are planning to do extension for extra capacity… I suggest you to make it deeper to keep the oil while cornering

Yes, I've check that before. It will not work.

If you are going to do NA swap I'd prefer 95-97 engine, for FI go for pre 95 since it has lower CR and thicker rods. As tony said… get all the possible things then you could throw the things you don’t need. But the necessary parts are: ECU, ignitrons, MAF with filter and fuel pump and pump ECU...