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Those are the M112 I want on the SC. Lol. I'm not sure if the M112 causes the hesistation or not, but I know for sure running rich causes the hesistation from start acceleration. And when the car is WOT, that's when it gets the chance to burn the extra fuel and makes the car run fast. 315 cc...

I read somewhere that someone stated the sprang break after 300 hp, too. But I personally don't agree. Mine has been running fine with 400 torques, even torque is what kills things. There're many factors that are involved. I like launching at a stop, but I don't do break-torque. Break-torque...

Yes. Those are the things that can certainly slow you down. But a correct sizing turbo will improve the response big time. There're other factors such as manifold & pipe designs all affect turbo response time. A good turbo setup can launch the car quickly right off the stop. My SC starts...

Thanks. That's not too bad. I already stripped off all suspension parts, except the bare subframe that's still attached. I guess I can take it off by myself.

Those are the very nice runs. I like that. I'm sure when the boost kicks in, that's where the fun starts. It seems like you have a turbo lag issue. You should have pulled ahead of the 350Z before the 2JZ in that 350Z kick in. Although you're on the roll, it still lags, which it shouldn't due...

I'm thinking about taking the rear subframe, but I'm not sure how heavy it is. Can you tell me how heavy it is?

If you run low boost like 6-7 psi, then there's no need for an intercooler. By the look of that water-air cooler, I don't think it's as efficient as air-air cooler. Air-air cooler can be had for around $150 on Ebay.

When you build the tranny, it's better to use the master overhaul kit. It has everything in it. With all of tranny mods I have, the tranny temp is a lot cooler. I can touch the tranny cooler with bare hands after I drive the car in summer. It's only warm. The tranny only breaks down when it's...

That's what some said on the 2nd gear sprag, but I doubt it. I run close to 400 whp, but the torque is more than that. The torque is what breaks things apart. I launch very hard, but I don't do break-torque. I think break-torque kills the gear sprag, tranny, or torque converter.

It'll be much easier if you take out the engine to inspect what the real damage is, and what needs to be replaced. It'll also be easier to take out parts and clean, when the engine is outside. 2 people will take out the engine in 3 hours or less, depending on how you're familiar with this engine.

It's fine. No problem so far. I'd expect it to last for a very long time. I have IPT shift kit, Alto Red hi-performance overhaul parts, and Lextreme TC. I also have a separate tranny cooler and I use full synthetic tranny fluid.

This should be a nice project.

You're not the only one who makes big mistake. Cheer up, my friend. It's in the fun. I make even bigger mistake, too. To the point that I crashed my entire car and had to buy another shell. I had to build up an entire car from exterior to interior. I saw a few guys use aftermarket expasion...

It looks like the fuel hose popped, probably due to the loose clamp. If you use braided hose cover for the fuel line, you'd need a stronger clamp than that standard clamp. The braided hose cover makes the clamp slips easily and not tightened enough. The FMU increases the fuel pressure up to 112...

You were still very lucky, because it caught fire while parking, and you're not driving.

Wow! Sorry to hear that Mike. It could have been a fuel leak. If you want to keep the engine, take it out and see what can be fixed. If the burned parts aren't severe, then replace them and run again. You can also check the aftermarket fuel parts such as the FMU, fuel hoses, fuel pressure...

You'll only use the SAFC if you'll run bigger injectors. The SAFC is used to trim down the fuel from bigger injectors, but not to increase the fuel from stock injectors. It can increase it, but it'll damage the stock injectors due to the injectors' maxed out capacity. For safety below 8 psi of...

Yep. Read my post above: Your goal is easily achieved with 6 psi of boost. All you need is a big high pressure fuel pump such as a Walbro 255 lph-hp or a stock Supra TT Denso pump, and you'll also need a FMU 12:1 ratio. No need for aftermarket ecu and tuning

That ratio 12:1 is to increase the most fuel pressure to make sure the engine has enough fuel during boost. There're other lower ratios, but this is the safest ratio to use. This FMU is to use with stock injectors. Don't use bigger injectors, because you'll need an aftermarket ECU to control them.

Your goal is easily achieved with 6 psi of boost. All you need is a big high pressure fuel pump such as a Walbro 255 lph-hp or a stock Supra TT Denso pump, and you'll also need a FMU 12:1 ratio. No need for aftermarket ecu and tuning.