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Not sure if this thread is dead or its just the time of year. Either way, I bought some 2ga. welding cable, ran it under the car to the trunk, and butt connected to the old positive wire, which I took off the block and ran as far back under the car as possible. This way there is only an...

Decided to start this make work project, but what is the best method for connecting the + cable? Run a new cable right to the starter? Or just bolt to the old + cable up front? Im thinking of running the old + cable as far as I can under the car (in fuel line tray, straightest possible route...

Thanks, ill check into the cressy sway bar. Finding one might be difficult here tho... Any interest in selling that strut bar SPF? I'm not sure I follow you on the end links, but once I get in there it will probably make more sense. A battery is definitely a good idea. I dont even have...

The wheels i have are already 18x8/9 with decent street tires. Ive considered down sizing to a 17" for less rotating mass, but i would also like a wider tread. I just ordered the Addco bar SPF mentioned. It would be nice to have one for the front too, but a strut tower bar can be found for...

I had no idea there was that much sound deadening in this car. I'll start chipping it out this week. The car currently has full mandrel 2.25" with cat delete. Washer resivoir was already removed, and yes there is a lot of weight there. I would really like to remove the nitrogen assisted...

Thanks as always SPF. I've considered relocating the battery but, to track the car you must have a kill switch visible on the trunk if youve moved your battery. I think having a knob on my trunk would ruin my VIP look :D I wish there was a sticky for weight reduction that can be done on...

I tracked my celsior for the first time tonight (post video soon) and I need to improve on suspension. I have Megan coils, dampers at 4/4 Im thinking 3/5 since there is no weight in the rear Car weighs 1740kg with driver It used to have air suspension so the rear sway bar is very small...

Yes the light problem was solved and unrelated to the hydro fans. Just coincidence I changed the fans out and my voltage regulator died giving me the light.

Thanks SPF What exactly would fail on these transmissions? I just finished my trans build last month. Added a cooler, ipt valve body, and lextreme TC. Some of the supra forum members suggest this transmission would be good for 600bhp if raybestos plates were added.

Can anyone tell me how much power a 1uz with stock internals would hold? 89-94 1uz: 95-97 1uz: Thanks.

To shim the accumulators I just used a 1/8" thick washer with a diameter of about 19mm. If you want to lock the line pressure you can crimp the kick down cable.

Yes its a Celsior. I have a habbit of referring to it as LS. Either way an SC ecu wont work and the damn light is still on. And I dont think another resistor will work. I tried manually operating the solenoid with the car running and the light still came on. The solenoid may be tied...

When you swapped the LS pump in did you plug any connectors back in? With the hydraulic fan on the LS there is a solenoid on the pump bracket which causes an error light to come on if its unpluged.

I dont think the ECU for the SC400 gives codes when you pull the fan, pretty sure its only an issue for the LS. Maybe the solution is install an SC400 ECU, but Im not sure if the pin outs are the same. Checking now...

Tried a 10ohm 25w resistor today and still had an error. I stripped back some of the wires to the solenoid and measured ohms while the car was running. It read 128ohms @ 3v, so i may try another resistor. I'd really like to avoid pulling the light on my dash, but its so ANNOYING.

I have completely removed the hydraulic fan pump and would like to know if anyone has been able to get rid of the error code it creates. Ive been testing the solenoid on the fan pump to see if I can replace the solenoid with a resistor to simulate a working fan pump. Has anyone tried this...

I dont think these ecu's were tuned for boost because of the advance. more info definitely needed!!

more pics would be nice.

I think ihiryu means just the engine wiring harness, which is separate from the harness I need. Cutting the harness would be a quick 10 min job, removing the full harness would be 4+ hrs. Either way I could use this as soon as possible.

Just finished this up today so thought I'd share. Cut the original idler pulley bracket off the hydro fan pump and welded on a small piece for support. Used a 61.5" belt and it fit perfect.