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FAT : P Forced Air Technologies... http://www.forcedairtech.com.au/

Sounds like the carbon canister purge solenoid, works when the throttle is "cracked" open.

My oil pressure guage will read close to 100psi when cold at 2000rpm and about 50-60psi at same rpm when hot. Cold idle is about 70psi, hot idle (30kms+ of driving) about 25psi. The pressures will also be dependant on oil weight, i am using 10w40.

Look at page 7 of the PDF that lambo posted, align the timing marks on the rear plates with the pullies. The timing tabs in the second picture should be 180 degrees opposite on the other bank.

What i mean is more shock loading the diff ie. bashing it through the gears with a manual box. You can still have fun but just have to have some respect. For example a friend has a datto with enough grunt to turn the tyres in 4th gear when it comes on boost (in the dry) but still has the stock...

A 9" is very strong but will take a fair bit more HP to drive than a stock diff. The stock 28 spline borgwarner is strong enough for 500hp+ ATW if driven with some sort of respect.

Yeah that would be Grant at Performanz, he brought in a few pallets about 1 year and a half ago. Have rang a few places, not settled on one yet but try a search for "half cut" on this site and there is a thread with names of places to go for an engine.

Had 3.45 previously (stock VL diff). It has def made a difference to the performance and feels very responsive, the car labours less around town too, 4th gear at 60 or 70ks is now fine were as before it felt like it was always slipping against the convertor when going up hills (due to rpm being...

Does the same thing as a torsen centre, just has less parts. Id say the torsen is no where near as harsh as the Lokka though, the Lokka could never be used on a production car as it can be pretty severe in the wet, and dry for that matter. It is also a ratchet style so it makes clicking noises...

The rule of thumb above is for a factory system that is designed for a specific boost level or in the 1UZ case is NA and does not expect boost. On a aftermarket ECU you can tune to whatever timing you want, just have to be very careful on how much. Iam not sure on the knock algorithm of a 1UZ...

It suits a Borg Warner 28 spline, dunno what 4b it was designed for. It is the same or close to a lock-right, the packaging is from the company i bought it from (4wd systems in adelaide) but it says it is copyrighted to Lock-Right (an american company). At the bottom of the page here...

FI is a must!! Its not that the 1UZ isnt enough, it goes fine, but there is never enough under the right foot. Got some 3.9 diff gears fitted along with a Lokka, its out of a 4wd, unlocks when going round corners with no load but stomp the throttle and it locks everything up like a spool, its...

Heres a link to a thread with pictures of the factory oil cooler... http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2441

U need to use a front sump, mid has no way of fitting and will require heaps of work - better off making one from scratch. The sumps are inter changable so if u get a mid or rear a front sump can be sourced. Look at sourcing an engine from over east, iam currently looking at getting another...

No offence taken 1UZ-HZ : ) Was just showing whats possible, a 1UZ is gonna cost way more in the end and people may not appreciate it as much but one things for sure the biggest smile will belong to the owner. Make sure u line this guy up in the HZ once its completed : )

Sadly people are like sheep, no one likes to think outside the square and prefer to just follow along with what everyone has done in the past. I have a VL Calais, everyone assumes its just another turbo RB30 just like if u have a kingswood everyone assumes it must be a Chev - being different is...

On the side of the 'box there is a switch network that tells the PCM what position the shift lever is in, page 2 of this doc shows how it works..... http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf Of course you can combine both the solenid status and lever position to display the true gear the 'box...

Use the S1 and S2 wires that go to the gearbox - they are solenoid 1 and solenoid 2. Use Kdogs wiring diagrams (presume you would have these if u've done a conversion already) They work like this... 1st gear = S1 on S2 off 2nd gear = S1 on and S2 on 3rd gear = S1 off and S2 on 4th gear =...

The flat plastic covers, the ones with the little slots in them.

Pumps are normally belt driven off the crank.