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Remove battery Pull dash apart, unplug engine loom from ecu/dash loom, pull loom through firewall into engine bay Disconnect power steering lines Disconnect aircon lines (assuming there is no gas in the system) Disconnect Hydro fan lines Disconnect tranny oil cooler lines Unplug...

My comment about the W58 destruction has nothing to do with the 1UZ alone, its more to do with the combination of the torque delivery of the 1UZ combined with the extra weight of a Soarer with large rear tyres combined with a clutch that doesn't do a great deal of shock absorbing. Obviously...

This is just me expressing an opinion here, but a) JZZ30 was R154 b) 1JZ puts out less shockloading torque than a 1UZ c) A 4-puck clutch to me is a bit more than 'slightly upgraded' over a standard full face organic d) maybe somewhere I have made the assumption it was getting boosted, I'd...

This was posted a few years back, not sure if it helps ? 1990-1994 1UZFE LS400 engine (1992-1995 SC400) 224 degrees intake duration (3 BTDC, 41 ABDC) apx .301"/7.65mm lift 229 degrees exhaust duration (41 BBDC, 3 ATDC) apx .305"/7.75mm lift

I'll be interested to know just how long that W58 lasts with that clutch in the heavy UZZ30

Bumping an ages old thread, does any one know what code 56 is ? Plug in my UCF11 ecu, no codes, start car, no codes. Plug in my UCF10 ecu, no codes, start car, instant code 56. The ecu with no codes is 89661-50102 ('90-'92 UCF10/11 with TRC) The ecu with code 56 is 89661-50092 ('90'92...

That explains why Australia is littered with the light grey injectors.

I should have a spare one somewhere. Will look over the weekend if you still need it.

The kit *should* fit an R151 as long as you don't use the SP10 spacer. The bellhousings are actually designed for R151's, and they use a ~30mm spacer to make it work with an R154. And funnily enough, I wouldn't mind the SP10 spacer if you happen to buy it all ! EDIT: and its a CRS...

When the studs are removed you should be reusing the holes to put bolts in.

Just keep tightening the vicegrips, and then a sharp blow with a hammer should suffice.

Do you still get the chime when you leave the key in and open the door ?

Vice grips work a treat. Done it a couple of times.

I'll check my Celsior, but I thought it was A - Cruise Control B - Accel Pedal C - Tranny

I've had some cylinders read almost 0psi because one of the valves was unable to fully close because of a slight rust build up (assumed). Once the motor was installed and running, a few heat cycles and some hard revs later, a compression test was redone and all was fine. A compression test...

1UZ's aren't mirror casting. They are identical casts.

The original gbox Celsior cable is backwards in that picture. They go in opposite directions. (Not sure it matters, just thought I'd point it out)