Search results

Within 18" of the battery on the +12v main battery cable is the industry standard.

Another thing to try is gears 3/4/5/r to make sure, I bought an r154 that had a busted 1/2 shift fork and wouldn't select those gears

Sorry, marlin crawler is correct

1st/2nd shift fork is weak, pirate4x4.com sells a billet one, common failure point for r151/154

All the eBay ones listed for 9/10 are listed as high impedance??

There is no mechanical timing adjustments

Nah haven't seen that part but I'd imagine it's only for some specific classes when they outlawed a bunch of those prototype domestic v8's etc But yeah but NHRA and IHRA are kind of a pain in the ass

Im running into some problems trying to build my celica to 10.0 NHRA legal. Mainly the requirements for SFI certified harmonic balancer, flywheel, clutch, bellhousing. As far as I've been able to tell either no-one makes them or they're all custom 1-off parts? Any ideas? I've got the tire...

i've never had any complaints about the stock timing map, what vehicle is this engine in? and what makes you think the timing map is to blame? If its still in an ls400/sc400 id be blaming the stock automatic and rear end gears over the stock timing map

Looks good, Sideshow is right and in a perfect world you'll never need the fuse but that one a in a million where an intake manifold nut/bolt a previous mechanic dropped down beside the starter that grounds out between the +ve terminal and the engine block, when it suddenly decides to dead short...

Ok let me verify sideshow did you just say not to use a fuse or circuit breaker on a battery relocation? If that's what you said PLEASE change that, a 200amp circuit breaker within 24" of the battery on the main battery cable is a definite MUST. I've seen a couple freak of natures where...

Yeah my early with air filter/intake pipe, custom headers, stock ecu made 247/270

search online for a toyota tps adjustment procedure, it involves using a multimeter to meaure voltage/resistance at a certain amount of throttle movement. do it properly or it wont work

just clarifying F=narrow angle (yes decent for fuel economy) E=Electronic fuel injection

bone stock early 1uzfe, billet 62mm turbo, 440cc 7mgte injectors and a megasquirt i hit 573whp/600ftlbs@13psi steve

Most annoying yet most applicable answer I can give is in the form of a question "how long is a piece of string" Meaning you have given no criteria to narrow down your request

i've done it by using the spring loaded smooth tensioner right beside alternator and its a pain in the ass and squeals due to engine torque overcoming the spring loaded tension. use the thor racing kit, its clean and easy steve

I'm up to 573whp and 600ft/lbs on a stock internal and heads early 1uz

gap your plugs down to 0.028" steve

since this forum can be quite gay lol here is the link to dyno video in link format instead of embedded http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvNxqvWR-fo