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Getting off on a tangent here and not to downplay the success you have had making these power levels using a stock ecu and additional injector controller is great. But you're making the statement that you lifting the heads has nothing to do with your engine management setup is not a claim that...

That's all well and good, by your own admission you don't have a lot of experience with aftermarket ecu's. That also makes you unqualified to make the statement that afterMarket ecu's are difficult to tune and make run like stock. My car runs like stock, doesn't have any hiccups or hesitations...

Yeah an hour or two on the dyno gets your WOT pretty damn close and if you go with something like a megasquirt (I'm running ms3pro) your drive ability tuning can be auto tuned through normal driving around town via the VE Analyze live portion of the software, it analyzes realtime your current VE...

Did you have the heads and block decked and checked and sure they are true? There seems to be an epidemic of people who decide to switch to MLS gaskets and only have the heads surfaced and don't do the block? Granted it's mostly the 7mgte guys but it happens In the end though what I see is...

Well it's never going to be a fast car cause it's only got a 10.0 legal 5pt bar in it, as well as there's a few SFI certified parts that they just don't make for our engines that NHRA requires, SFI certified harmonic balancer being one

Pt6262 ball bearing t4 housings, id1000's, ms3-pro, t56 magnum, Ross 9.5:1, TTC cromo rods, cometic MLS, ford Zetec main studs as head studs, ACL bearings. Etc etc

I didn't actually have a power related failure on that engine, made 573whp@13psi on a precision billet 6262 t4 housing. Had a tilton 7.25" clutch that took out my thrust bearings. Was on 94octane pump gas. Not saying you won't make your goals but we're pushing the stock stuff pretty far already

Let me correct, good luck past 575whp on a stock bottom end which was 13psi in my setup

Good luck past 16psi on a stock early bottom end even with e85

I'm shooting for 30-35psi, non-vvti, Ross pistons cromoly rods, 10mm arp studs, cometic MLS HG's

What ecu also helps?

For reference on 94octane(~97ron for Paul), 13psi I'm running around 22-23degrees of timing (dyno tested optimal) and if I had to hazard a guess the stock ecu is probably sitting at 35+degrees in roughly the same N/A load cells, well as best as it can deal trying to calculate the air flow

Yeah most definitely I agree that it's in the tune, if I read that correctly all your timing is being controlled by the stock ecu? That's a lot of timing to be running with higher boost levels

Bad Brandon! Get back to work lol

Just for giggles here's a link to an engine he designed and built this year I got to see it in the final assembly stages and it's ludicrous http://www.hotrod.com/news/see-video-of-a-top-fuel-hemi-converted-to-burn-diesel/?sm_id=social33057596

Generally the LS guys that are lifting heads with boost are using the shittier end of the factory 10 stud heads and that's usually due to the actual deck thickness of the stock heads, the aftermarket companies like AFR run thicker head castings for this reason. From what I've seen of other...

Lextreme doesn't sell parts anymore and ttc doesn't really exist anymore other than a website still up. eagle rods are probably the best bang for the buck for most people right now

in case the OP ever returns I had a few issues: 1. the STD bore ross pistons were actually 0.020" over bore 2. the ARP2000 bolts were actually knock-off 8740's 3. the waterpump, timing belt, gaskets and MLS head gaskets were all POS Chinese knock offs and I ended up replacing when they shit...

Quick question, you're running just the crank trigger? Have you converted it to a missing tooth config? Cause stock they're just 12 every spaced teeth and nothing to tell the ecu it's completed a revolution. I'm running stock crank and passenger side crank trigger for TDC reference