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BTW, here are the three coolant sensors that I know of from the early series 1UZ's. I think you may have a later series, so I'm not sure if you have the single wire sensor on the far left that is/was dedicated to the coolant gauge?

Well, I know you said you've already replaced the sensor, but according to that last test, it really seems like you still have a bad sensor. This is the single wire sensor we're talking about, right? The one that feeds the temperature gauge itself? If you have a DVM, try measuring the...

Toyota and Lexus use thermistors with an NTC curve for their coolant sensors, meaning they have higher resistance at low temps, and lower resistance at high temps. So if your needle is pegged hot, more than likely you have a short somewhere in your wiring. Easy way to isolate it, is disconnect...

We had a guy on here who had a turboed 1 or 2UZ in a dedicated racecar and he was making crazy horsepower. Never had a crank problem AFAIK. The rods are a weak link.

Better conrods for a start. They're one of the weak links in the later, non-VVTi engines. The early conrods are stronger than the later ones, but I still wouldn't trust them for prolonged duty at high RPM, especially in a boat.......

I'm trusting to a 10 year old memory here, but I'm pretty sure the cams had to come out before the head fasteners became accessible. Perhaps Gloverman will jump in & clarify.

Patrick, welcome to Lextreme! Yes, the activity of the forum has died off, but a number of us are still here although we don't post much. Glad to hear you're going to start a build thread - the UZ's are great engines, but they're expensive to extract power from because they were largely ignored...

Alan, good to see you back, but the forum's gone pretty quiet of late. David was the one developing most of the aftermarket stuff, but he sold the forum and hasn't participated much since.

Henk, thanks for your contribution!

Sure, good luck with your project, and please keep us posted with pics!

Back when I was doing supercharger calcs, I measured mine at 140mm.

I think you're on the right track then :) Cables should be fine with those lengths, as long as your connections are good. Have you shot the connections with an IR laser gun?

Good indicators for sloppy stem seals and valve guides are: A puff of smoke on startup (due to oil leaking past the stem seals & guides since the last run) Smoke on deceleration (vacuum "pulls" oil past the seals & guides) #2 AWG cables are on the smallish side, depending how far the...

You could squeeze one of the coolant hoses when the engine is running and you should be able to feel the flow of coolant.

Mat, so with your update, are you now getting flow, and is the radiator heating up?

Kelvin, in case no one has mentioned it to you lately, you're an incredible resource. Thanks for all you do!

Is it running with a bypass valve? If so, I'd check to see if it's leaking.

+1 to what Gloverman said! Let us know how it runs with the Wolf once you get everything sorted?

Not familiar with the Wolf ECU, but am fairly familiar with COP conversions and have done them on a number of engines including 3 of the UZ's. Here are a few things to look for: 1. If it was running fine before the COP conversion, were you running a twin coil distributor setup, as per OEM, with...

I think that's from our friend Joel who was fond of mounting Jag SC's on UZ's for boat applications.