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That's one of my dream cars, 2400lb with over 300 (smooth) horses, way cool. The auto uses the std ecu I believe, may be good to get that for ease of install/tuning. You can max out the oem injection/cams with a good piggy back as well, any more than that and there's bigger $ involved. There...

The TRD Nascar engines are more like an american V8 with pushrods and all; no comparison there I'm afraid. I'd just think of the engine more as two Camry engines put together nicely. I don't think that the difference in deck height will greatly affect the CG either. Maybe look into putting a...

Sounds like a good investment to have made in a serious build, along with a good ecu, you can now do way more than with the stock setup. One thing I've noticed with cams that are rated to make power from x,000-x,000rpms is that they will usually want to rev about 1,000 higher than that number...

Ahhh! I'm glad it's not a V10! Good question Turboandrew, I'd suspect a cross between the two versions of heads, but closer to the F head, based on what the current race cars are using. Might have direct injection, v-tech-type cam setup also. Nice to see that they kept the chassis pretty close...

That's some nice hardware, did your builder see any need to modify the oil drain-back in the heads? Some engines that were primarily used at lower rpms will tend to hold oil in the heads and not drain fast enough for continous hi rpm use with the added turbo oiling capacity. Any pictures of...

The Supra Swaybar bushings are a direct swap and have a liner that keeps the bind/squeak from happening.

For N/A , the stock regulator is probably fine; it works on the same principle as the aftermarket ones, can be adjusted to go richer(but not leaner) by raising the fuel pressure, but you won't likely need it unless you have additional ignition timing, headwork as I have done.

It looks like you'd need to grind the crank regardless to, and that offset alone would get you to within .013-.014 of the original deck height.That would allow you to use stock-sized pistons. I would imagine that it would counter-productive to take material from the rods.

You can have springs made from a spring company to your specs, or use coil-overs and have a huge choice of springs to fit them. Don't forget that your battery will likely be in the trunk, freeing up a couple of those pounds(if you haven't already). On MKIV.com, there's a spring rate listing in...

In a mid-engined car with some room behind the motor, yes, but not in most vehicles. What if you were to have a common muffler chamber just before the collectors to dump everything into(right behind the motor)? It'd be like a uni-collector. The outlets could be on the bottom, to then go out...

That guide would be very cool to find, since it may be rather tough to find replacement valve bodies to modify after going too far with mine.

Get the heads done by someone who knows, and then use some tapered individual intakes that start out at 60mm, and taper down to 45mm, total length about 12 inches from the valve. The taper from the 45mm throttle bodies down to the now 40-something mm intake port should be done in the last 2-3...

I'd noticed from the pictures in the tech articles that there is some room for performance in the valve/seat area. Is this what he was talking about, or is there something I'm missing? Whenever I get curious about something inside my engine I just start looking through the tech articles here...

Wow, that's a good deal, broke though. What do you suppose they suggest to replace the gears that sync the pairs together?

That's assuming that it's a straight passage; it's not. 38mm is the cross section at the port on the early motors anyways. That # puts the torque right at where the factory cars peak is. Keep trying to convince me though, it's fun.

Put a switch in the fuel pump circuit, or another circuit that only stays functioning for a few seconds.

Isn't 80-85% the limit? I have no experience burning out an injector, but that it what I have been told not to go beyond.

http://alsacorp.com/chrome.htm If you haven't seen this paint, take a look; it could be pretty wild on an SC with all the curved surfaces and all. And if you mods figure that there is not any way that this could ever be sprayed on our cars just take it down... I tried to post this over...

I guess I was thinking that the Big Block Chevy would be better in a 3800 pound car. Kind of like it works with a Chevelle; is ok with a smallblock, but 468 roller cam engine is going to be the hot ticket.

Yeah, the slower moving gasses in the corners would be holding up the faster moving flow in the center of the tubes.