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Set your toe-in to 0 all the way around. Shim the accumulator springs in the trans. Use synthetic fluids, preferably a true racing oil in the motor. Last one may give you a few hp, sorry.

I have done a similar thing to another car, and the power steering pump, as it was, worked fine without the vanes, plugged, as long as the right quantity of fluid was used to compensate for the expansion that occurs when heated. I also used a motor oil with some moly additive, since there's...

I have been running dual, and quad electrode plugs for years with success. Probably not the best for a pressurized motor though.

Right, so I'm wondering how much duration @ .050 lift would be gained by removing a specified amount from the base circle, say .020, or so. I have done this on other engines, and the cam never really performed because there wasn't any large gain in effective duration. What happened was that the...

They look pretty good to me, all things considered, maybe a little rich, but that's better than not knowing. After all, there's likely a point where things are leaner, and if you were any leaner overall, that point could be a problem. I have begun using a surface fire plug in my daily driver...

I once saw a test done where a car was intercooled only, and it did make some extra power. You're already at an advantage being at sea-level.

How about a short plenum on top of the lower intake manifold, would be like a tunnel ram, maybe use a 390 Holley. Or , use a pair of funky, older carbs as throttle bodies, keep the injectors, since they're hidden under the covers anyways. Sounds like a cool project.

So, how much duration does the average Toyota cam gain when given a mild grind versus material removed ?

That's true about the turbulence, the Karmen "Vortex" MAF will get a foul reading if there's extra turbulence since the readings are figured from the amount of turbulence formed inside the sensor body.

When I had looked at that setup, they hadn't done anything for the ignition yet, sounds like a cool setup. Keep us posted.

I'll bet you'd be able to weld a couple perches for the Toyota motor mounts right onto your steel subframe. Sounds like a neat swap, but you'll have to get the emblems from the absolute slowest variation of that car to complete the sleeper effect. I might measure the width of your engine bay...

ITBs are great for the street, especially during lower rpms where a nasty engine will tend to bog with a plenum-type intake. Also, you can't just compare the throttle body area between a plenum and ITBs; the situation is different. The foam bike filters do work very well though.

Yup, and the intake runners would have to be pretty radical also, all of the stock sizing is aimed to peak at 5,500rpm or so, heads the same. 7,000 would be a more easily attainable limit without getting into exotic materials, fabrications.

While you're at it, consider a dedicated oil reserve for the turbo, ie, not into the engine's sump. Turbos are kind of hard on the oil, this will allow you to run, and change the turbo oil as required independent of the engine.

No timing control; bummer, that and no add-on injector feature. I like the products from Split Second, however i am using a Unichip on the SC; it stinks not being able and mess with it, but I have been told the injectors are running at max duration, so I just increase fuel pressure to fine...

There was an increase in power, and the sound is now louder as well, but there is no drone during cruising, and the car sounds like a Mustang for the most part. The exhaust note is nicer with the timing advanced through the piggyback, the oem timing-settings make for higher exhaust temps.

If it changes one way or the other with the additives, that's good, if it's goey valve stems after all, it may have to get worse sounding before it gets better.

I haven't seen a soarer with the ITBs yet, sounds like a cool project. I recall seeing the Carbontech setup a couple years ago, and suspected that it used the original runners. I was amazed at how much power it made on a mildly prepped motor, wasn't it around 400 or so? That is when I began...

The factory "y" is the most restrictive part of the stock system; the two tubes are pinched to help with quiteness/smoothness/equal pulse/smog. It's the only part, along with the center resonator(cat on your CA spec car) that I have replaced so far, as the oem SC mufflers are all a straight...

I would do that, but it's a nine page thread that basically explains how to shim the accumulator springs in this trans. I found a link from another site, try that again... http://soarercentral.com/alsc-forum/messages/3/43691.html?1115689374 I believe the same pictures are used here, if...