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I thought the coils would have been lower than those. Might have to rethink things lol

Yes thats where they are for. I have a set of cast old school style that need polishing and hope to make some billet ones over the weekend so hopefully (camera permiting) will put some pics up next week

Hi Cribbj, thanks for the reply. Im not using any at the moment. I want to make some billet alloy inserts to market so would perefer to make one style to fit most needs. Will also make some cast old school inserts for the hot rodders like myself and would like to make the pattern to do the same...

Am making some rocker cover inserts and thought i should make them to clear COP. Does anyone have a measurement from top of coil to top of rocker covers (highest point). Once i have that i can make them and post a pick. The sump and trans pan are still on the go.

:):):):):):):):):):):):)

Bushing the rod down is nothing as long as everything else works out

I should have a prototype sump early in the new year to make a mould off so will give you an idea of what they will look like and approx capacity and dimensions. They will be one peice and have the extra boltholes for bellfousing support as per original. Trans pan shouldnt be too much later:D:D

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I have one in a hot rod and there are getting to be more fitted so will see what happens though rear sumps from what i can gather are sought after and harder to get than front or centre though could be wrong

Not much interest so far. I will make a couple of sumps and finned trans oil pans and put some picks up when done & go from there. Sometime in the new year

Is that a cast surface you are measuring off. Be better to measure to maybe one of the bolt holes to head face or tappet cover face to head face or cam bearing to head face for a more accurate measurment.

I am thinking of making some cast aluminium rear drop sumps for the 1UZ. They will probably be a winged design with the full rear bolt pattern to bolt to the bellhousing. Just wandering how much interest there would be if i was to go ahead. Wouldnt be till the new year i don't think so plenty of...

The angle of the engine should be the same as the pinion with a max of 3 deg at the unis. So engine can be moved up or down without varying the angle between the pinion and the engine but the uni angle can change up to 3 deg though in a mid engined car that would not be much due to the short...

Try turning it backwards. If there is an obstruction like a valve open it should turn backwards for a short way as well.

can also be something that someone in the past has hooked up to that power source so might not show up in a wiring diagram

Just an update. What i ended up finding is the squish plate in the pump was loose so fuel was squeezing around the sides and heating up in the pump. Put a new pump on and all good. Would have thought the pump should do better than 30,000 miles though.

Just sit the motor you have on the floor, put a square against the centre of the stud on each mount and put a chalk line on the floor. Then just measure between the chalk lines

There is a bloke in Melb that does ECU's but cant remember his name. I'm sure there will be someone on here that will know who i am refering to. I think he is mentioned in one of the other forums

Thanks for the replies everyone. I understand all of the ideas put out above. The thing that gets me is why no probs for 2 1/2 years and 30,000 miles and now just started doing it

G'day all, just lately in this hot weather i have been having trouble with my fuel system. If i get down to half a tank or so i lose line pressure. The fuel in the tank gets very hot and could be vapourising. If i go and fill up then i dont have any probs and if it is a cool day i have no probs...