Recent content by Spinnetti

Technically this is an electric supercharger rather than Turbocharger. Audi did this in production, but they run it on 48v I think. All engineering is a tradeoff and lots of things are possible but all depends on the end goal and design constraints. Deep dive: Here's how Audi's electric...

Thanks... after all that, looks like the brake booster had just enough of a leak to not work right. I replaced it and it stops properly now, though the pedals seems soft and long travel. It doesn't bottom out, just feels mushy.. I'll give it another bleed. I wonder if there's another master...

You could just do like I did - use the GS400 integrated master cyl/booster/abs... very simple, but cutting out the ABS is easy; just plumb it up and throw out the parts you don't want. I'm not aware of a prop valve in the master though - Just T the rear lines and put in a Tilton bias bar in the...

This is such a simple thing but I'm still stumped. ABS pump runs using the test procedure, booster seems ok, and booster check valve is good. Pads and rotors are good. Fluid completely flushed with no air, and new master cyl. New master helped but takes a lot of pedal pressure to get ABS to...

It didn't run when I did a "panic" stop, and also didn't run when bled the brakes and also didn't run when I did the test procedure outlined in the repair manual, so I assume either the motor or controller died.. I should know for sure this weekend.

Hmm. thanks. The pedal sinks about half-way without much effort. It only firms up toward the bottom. The ABS pump never runs too. I shorted the pump connection per the manual and the ABS pump didn't run, so I'm thinking the pump or the control circuit in front of it. I ordered a used one and...

Picked up a "survivor" dang thing looks new and the owner did his best to take care of it, so its pretty, but needs lots of mechanical stuff. I got it mostly sorted but have one odd one. Brake rotors and pads are good but it takes lots of pedal effort to get the car to stop at all, and it stops...

Yep. Inlet is on the left hand rail (or right hand if you are standing in front looking at the engine). I went the other way as I replaced my early engine with a late one, then used Sequoia fuel rails (round style) to keep the fuel return system (vvt models are returnless)

Thanks. Stock ECU would be ok, but I changed the gearing enough where its "confused" on when to shift. I'm trying to find something that can control both engine and trans, or even just the trans so that it will act properly on a racetrack like a modern Porsche or BMW does.

is this vvt or non-vvt? Does it control transmission too, or just engine? Thanks.

Sure, but if you have to ask.....

Sounds like my LS.. I just hand fabbed from exhaust manifolds back. 2 1/4" to x pipe, then two small summit "Cherry bomb" style straight through mufflers. I went right side exit, but straight back would sound the same. couple hours and a couple hundred bux.

Yes, 650.. The engine and trans both came out of a 1998 GS400 as a pair. I'm trying to validate if changing the rear end ratio could cause shifting issues, and if so, if there is a circuit I could add to the speed sensor to compensate for the gear change.

Front end on my 90' LS getting rough, and I have access to a 97. Anybody try swapping the front end off a later car to an earlier one? Knowing how Toyota does things, I'm thinking the fenders and hood would bolt right up? (I can change the core support too if needed).

I have a fully race built trans, and both it and the original stock trans did the same thing... its not about speed of shifting - its like the ECU can't process the difference between the engine RPM and expected transmission speed or maybe that the ECU only cares about engine RPM? Either way, it...