Recent content by Drain2

Cleaned the iacv by shaking it with loads of carb clean and I got the car to idle. Rpm gauge is reading around 1800-2000 on idle. I’m gonna try adjusting the tps as I just put on a new one.

All the bad connections are good connections now. The car will occasionally start up with a very rough idle jumping around in rpm’s. I can get the car to idle if I’m only slightly holding the throttle by the cable, when doing this there is a sweet spot where the engine will idle and when it will...

Got the iacv connection replaced and it ran a bit better, replacing the tps pigtail next

It will run but not very well. The rpm’s kinda jump around between 500-1100 if I’m feathering or slightly hold the throttle.

got the car put back together and it almost ran, I’m going to replace the iacv connector next as it is just as destroyed as the injector clips. Also when I try starting the car the rpm gauge bounces all over the place then the engine dies if that adds anything.

Thanks, I’ll be replacing those soon, driver side wires were falling out of the pigtails. Replaced the studs on the crossover as well. Will update again when I replace the injector clips

i think I got ahead of myself so I did not pull the engine, however I found a stud on the rear crossover that wouldn’t allow me to loosen the nut. I figure this is my coolant leak and will try a pressure test soon. On topic of the stumbling and hesitation I found multiple of my injector clips...

So the rear is leaking coolant. In between the tranny and the motor so I’m pulling it out and fixing that seal. Since I’m already here… I’ll check all my wiring with the harness in a more viable location and track down every single wire gremlin I can find. I will update soon.

I checked the sensors resistance before I’ve left for school and the crank read about 2400 ohms. I’m going to remove some of the front loom and see if I can find any corrosion causing a higher resistance. Could it just be a bad plug? Should I still check for readings at NE G1 and G2?

The heads were serviced pretty recently I just got the whole engine put back together and have had it started and drove a couple times, albeit with the code 13 the car still started. Code 13 appeared initially after rebuilding engine then went away as I replaced most of the ignition system...

Already tried replacing with new plugs, it helped but didn’t solve the backfiring. I will do the comp test but the valves should be good as I just got the heads serviced. I think it is a fuel delivery issue. Occasionally when I start the car it takes multiple seconds to crank as the idle slowly...

Hello all! Had to create a new account and decided a new thread would work as well I have replaced spark plugs, coils, distributors, caps, rotors. And all 3 sensors and plugs with them on the cams and crank. I had a code 31 but that was resolved with new plug for MAF Sc400 has code 13...