Recent content by Damien

I use a Techedge 2J0 with my 420c with the sensor at the y-pipe. It's a fairly cheap wideband because it doesn't have a display so it's really designed to be used as an input to something like the Adaptronic.

The current guys have only owned it for a few years as they'd just taken over when I got my kit.

Alloy Race Components in Melbourne make a 5kg alloy flywheel with a steel insert. I've been using one for the last year in my Soarer and it's fantastic. Much better than the 11kg cast one from CRS. http://www.alloyrace.com/productview.php?pid=6&ppid=flywheels

No, but neither has Jibby.

You don't reduce the drag on the engine by converting everything to electric. The alternator requires more power (from the crank) to generate the extra electricity. Say it takes 5hp to run a pump - if you convert to electric power first you lose some power along the way, so the alternator...

PS. The pic of the rods is here http://www.lextreme.com/rods.html

The high comp engine actually came in at the end of 94 and it also seems the skinny rods were introduced then as well. After 96 it got VVTi but the comp stayed the same (10.4). Not sure what makes the comp different though.

My ITB setup is mapped via TPS and it also uses a MAP sensor to account for barometric differences and the 2 tables are combined (TPS x MAP). This is with an Adaptronic ECU. Drivability on the road, in traffic and on the track is excellent and when in closed loop the fuel economy is fine.

If most of the NZ dynos are hub dynos and most of the Aussie ones are Dyno Dynamics there must be something in that to explain the differing figures.

I asked the guy who dynos my car about this - he said that the dyno can calculate the power to turn the roller because it knows the tractive force measured on the load cell, the diameter of the roller and the speed of the roller. This is on a Dyno Dynamics so in that case tyre diameter isn't...

Tuning any ECU without being in the car isn't really possible. You can load a base map into the ECU but that's about it so whether you have an Adaptronic or a piggyback you need to tune either on the road or on a dyno. If you want to keep it simple get a piggyback, especially if you don't...

Nissan S-Cargo.

lol :)

The resistance is from the valve springs pushing against the cam lobe so what you're describing is normal. Valve spings are very stiff so use a wrench to get it where you need it.

No - tranny fluid is in the tranny and oil is in the engine and the bellhousing is in between.