Recent content by 361UZ

Agreed. But the OP was not even aware of it's function. Hence my suggestion to adjust it as per "the manual" (ie, correctly).

And it connects to the throttle at the throttle body. It MUST be adjusted correctly AS PER THE BOOK. No room for error, no "slight adjustments for a crisper shift etc". If it's not adjusted correctly, the trans will (most likely) slip in all gears, so burning it up real quick.

Hi Steve. No help (sorry) but will this be a project you can post progress on here? Something for us all to look forward to! Whereabouts are you?

Yeah, hopefully the buyer will come back. Did you photograph the bad terminal? You could show him so he doesn't think the problem has "gone away to return another day".

Usually, when I have a flat (ish) battery OR there is a bad connection between the battery and the car (either positive or ground), everything is ok until the key is turned to start. The large current drawn by the starter "stresses" the connections and any poor ones give way, often with a spark...

Good to hear, and great that you remembered to let us know the outcome. As I said above, I have had "worn" fuses, especially the blade type. Not sure if its the link that goes high resistance under load, or the female socket that loses tension over the years. The Crown wiring I have in my Chev...

" Obviously, if I can get the checking system to work, it will throw quite a few codes as a lot of things haven't been connected. " But presumably the battery is disconnected between testinmg sessions, so hopefully any unintentional codes should be cleared. I am a bit like you in the dogged...

Interesting progress. An ECU WITH a working checking system would be a must, even if the problem with the car is something else. Its the only sure way to see what the ECU thinks is the problem. If I was your friend (and I might be in the same boat one day) I'd be exploring alternate ECU's. You...

See the video. The light should be ON with ignition and go out when the engine starts, unless you have a fault that has set an error. To see the error, link T1 and E1 on the diagnostic connector... (You dont have one) so, T1 is pin 15 of the 16 pin ECU connector (Blue/White), E1 is...

Thanks for that. Although mine is finished and runs, I would be happy to pay for a set of "official" diagrams. Can you PM me a price?

Thanks mate! I haven't got those. The diagram in page 3 confirms that the AFM is a karman-vortex unit. The resistor is an LDR. The led is infra red. It shines on a mirror and the LDR picks up the reflections. The mirror is mounted on a flexible mount that is caused to oscillate by ultra-sonic...

As to reliability, I can't say. Mine works. That's the only one I have had experience with. Torana dashboard, as in Aussie Torana? Cant see why that would be an issue, except it uses a Torana fuel pump? Torries had carby's. Fuel pump pressure 4 or 5 pounds. 1UZ are fuel injected. 40 50 PSI...

You beat me to it... See my suggestion above. I checked your ECU part number against the one am using in my Chev. Same part number, serial number on mine is 175000 - 2403. But I still wouldn't be blaming the AFM without evidence. Did you manage to read the AFM part number? Do you have the ECU...

"Google is your friend" I searched your question, as I dont know the answer. Here's what I got first try: (From ClubLexus - someone asked the same question in 2014): The rear mount takes about 20 minutes. Here is how I changed the front 2. The mounts themselves are not cheap approximately...

Yeah, this is the problem when people just build and don't leave tracks! The part number of the one I have is 22204-42010. The part number is easily visible just looking at it. I dont suggest at this stage buying a new one. . It has 5 wires, because 2 are used for the inlet air temp sensor...