Wiring auto to wolf ECU

[ivan129]

Hi Russ, Run a ground behind your button, set a pullup in the config and adjust the table to detect the gnd where want it to engage or disengage 4th. Understanding the wolf logic can be a challenge at times.
For the VSS (variable reluctor), one side goes to ground, the other to the wolf input pin.
Here's some snips from a V550 for the VSS. Change the pin and set up the divider when your on the dyno.

 

[361UZ]

Looks like fun! I am not a wolf expert, (more like a wolf in sheep's clothing...)
That "low side driver" I assume means it goes low when true. So 1Amp implies a relay is required?
Is that an output that would normally go TO a gearbox to say "Go into overdrive"? Or is it an output that goes to an indicator (OD on)?
Maybe call me sometime. Be great to catch up. (Yes, I have added your number..)


Jeff

 

[ivan129]

This is what your config should look like (see attached), LS7 an input (renamed) with a pull-up resistor set.

Now setup your config table under it, then most likely will need to link it to a multicontroller.

 

[redsx]

This is what your config should look like (see attached), LS7 an input (renamed) with a pull-up resistor set.

Now setup your config table under it, then most likely will need to link it to a multicontroller.

Hi Ivan sorry not to get back to you sooner.

I went through all the configuration files I have and there is no micro controller for the AL7, This is the configuration used it basically looks like an on off switch.
My speed sensor config is the same as yours so not sure what to do with it configuration wise.
I did notice on your wolf wiring trans wiring diagram that the pins B5 Line control and B6 T/C lockup get power from the +12V line going to the ecu. I would have thought they would have power supplied from the transmission harness for these two solenoids, so dont understand why there is power added here as well.


I am guessing the overdrive needs to be wired like the original as highlighted in the factory wiring diagram which gets power from the Ignition. Basically the wolf setup would connect to the factory wiring through an interface plug, so don't see it doing anything different.

 

[ivan129]

S1 & S2 are outputs that require +12V to switch the solenoids on. You should have assigned output pins for them. Both solenoids off is 4th gear (Overdrive) The outputs that drive these solenoids will be linked to a Multicontroller of which LS7 (if that's the input pin you're using for the OD switch) will be an input for. Depending on your logic, 4th gear (overdrive) will be enabled or disabled. That is if you are look for a gnd to allow the trans to shift to 4th gear or looking for a high to. You will need to create a 2D or 3D table for it depending on what parameters you want to use to engage or disable OD. Lets say you just use the switch then only a 2D table is required but if you also want to apply a speed parameter or a load parameter then you would need multiple tables, either 2D or 3D depending on the logic you use. Hope this helps.

 

[ivan129]

Hi Jeff, yes the number called is mine. The wolf ecu controls the auto box as well as the engine which is part of the reason I used the wolf.
I understand the operation of the solenoids and how the box is set up, but I have one wire which has thrown me. It's B1 Aux LS7.
It's set up as O/D which I presume would be the button to turn overdrive off as everything else is connected. I guess what I am trying to figure out if it should have power on this line, in the Toyota diagram in a previous post above, it gets power through the line via the Ign1, gauge fuse,through the dash O/D light and then to O/D line between ECU and off Button, or whether it should run through a relay, or if it just needs to be grounded via a switch? this is the configuration page for the aux LS7.
View attachment 14041
pin out configuration

View attachment 14038

The speedo is going to be ECU configuration as the crown output is different to the soarer so not sure how it works out. I the wiring have it setup to get power from the main relay 12v and earthed and the VSS goes to the ECU. here is the speedo configuration page not sure what has to change here to get the right readings.
View attachment 14042

I've taken another look at the most recent screen shot you shared with me and it shows 1-2-3-4 (MCO2) that is it looks like you have set up MultiController 2 (MCO2) for all gears. I would then assume you have both solenoid (S1 & S2) linked under it. I'm not sure how that would work as my understanding is that an MCO can only control one output and can use multiple triggers. I would have expected to see as an example S1 (MCO1) & S2 (MCO2). Each controller drives an output and can use multiple triggers, can have 1 x 3D table and up to 4 x 2D tables. If I go back in time when I used the wolf to control the auto see picture.

 

[redsx]

ivan129, time has got away and have only just seen your post from back in sep 2020, the setting are from the auto are what was in the map that Robbie sent me in the startup map I haven’t changed them.

 

[ivan129]

Thanks all sorted now. Turfed the Wolf and fitted a real ECU....Haltech. Oh what a difference!

 

[redsx]

Thanks all sorted now. Turfed the Wolf and fitted a real ECU....Haltech. Oh what a difference!

Might be my only option as well as I haven’t been able to get it to run.

 

[ivan129]

I messed with a Wolf for a couple of years. At first I couldn't get my engine to go pop either. Took me weeks before I got it started and to run. Found the skips and numbering confusing, cylinders numbering 1 - 8 but firing events 0 - 7. Then the skip events 0 - ? depending on your trigger wheel teeth count, mine was 4 not 12 and initially MSD wasted spark b4 going sequential COP. Was a pig to start, either too lean or too fat fouling plugs. Did get it running ok though after years of fiddling.. well sort of. Couldn't get the auto control working either so I designed my own controller. Its still working in the car today. But I wanted more from the ECU, like self tune that really worked, Knock control and easy to use software so I junked the wolf and went Haltech. Another member on the forum also coaxed me toward Haltech. BEST Thing I did! I downloaded the Haltech NSP software and after a couple of nights playing with it, new it was a no brainer upgrade. Created a base map from the Haltech libraries, turned the key and the car started and idled. Took me weeks to get that out of the crappy old wolf when I first installed it. The only advantage I see the wolf having over a Haltceh is the wolf has more outputs and more drive current BUT the Haltech craps all over a wolf EVER where else. They even have a library for the auto. Junk your wolf and fit a Haltech. You will never look back. Its pretty easy too to repurpose your wolf loom to fit an Elite 2500 as the connectors are the same, just need to move a few pins around.

 

[redsx]

I messed with a Wolf for a couple of years. At first I couldn't get my engine to go pop either. Took me weeks before I got it started and to run. Found the skips and numbering confusing, cylinders numbering 1 - 8 but firing events 0 - 7. Then the skip events 0 - ? depending on your trigger wheel teeth count, mine was 4 not 12 and initially MSD wasted spark b4 going sequential COP. Was a pig to start, either too lean or too fat fouling plugs. Did get it running ok though after years of fiddling.. well sort of. Couldn't get the auto control working either so I designed my own controller. Its still working in the car today. But I wanted more from the ECU, like self tune that really worked, Knock control and easy to use software so I junked the wolf and went Haltech. Another member on the forum also coaxed me toward Haltech. BEST Thing I did! I downloaded the Haltech NSP software and after a couple of nights playing with it, new it was a no brainer upgrade. Created a base map from the Haltech libraries, turned the key and the car started and idled. Took me weeks to get that out of the crappy old wolf when I first installed it. The only advantage I see the wolf having over a Haltceh is the wolf has more outputs and more drive current BUT the Haltech craps all over a wolf EVER where else. They even have a library for the auto. Junk your wolf and fit a Haltech. You will never look back. Its pretty easy too to repurpose your wolf loom to fit an Elite 2500 as the connectors are the same, just need to move a few pins around.

Sounds like the way to go as the car has been sitting here for another 3 years not running, and everything looks good on the maps, and I have compared a few, it has power and spark in the right places but no bang, though it has moved around the country and been shipped across the ditch in that time so haven’t had the time to spend on it. I had thought of using the original crown ECT to control the trans and connect it up to the EMS, I know Gloverman has done that using later ECU’s on the five speed auto’s.
Though the cost of the Haltech is beyond me at the moment I would have to sell the car to pay for it but I have wasted far too much time on this and not enjoying the ride, but I hate the fact it’s beating me. Do you have a copy of your last running map I could try?

 

[ivan129]

Yes I have plenty of maps I can send u. There are a few things to consider though. Probably best if I send you my wiring chart too.
My later maps were sequential ign. i.e COP, and sequential injectors. Early maps were wasted spark.
You need to be mindful of how you wired the coils and injectors i.e 1 -1 thru 8 - 8 or are they wired in firing order. This has an impact on the sequence and skips.
I used the left hand cam as the sync and later tunes a 12 tooth (std toyota) crank trigger wheel.
Send me an email @ [email protected] and I'll send you some maps and wiring chart.