What can be deleted off the motor without causing ill effects?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

lowboost

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East Coast USA!!! South Carolina!
I am in the process of taking my 1uzfe out of my SC400, its a total mess to me! I have like 100 pulleys on this thing, ok ok maybe Im exaggerating but really all I need is an alternater on my setup. So oil pump and water pump and alternater on one belt. I know its been done, I just need to know what all these other things are. I forgot my camera and I will take pics tonight, But I have like these ps pumps and stuff that are just all compacted into or around the front of the motor. I want this motor as bare as I can get on the factory ECU first off. Then switch to an autronic ems later down the road.

1uzfe4.jpg

LOOK AT ALL THAT CRAP!

Anyways back on topic, I want to get rid of the other TPS sensor to the TRAC and the any other plugs that are pointless to my setup. Any input would be awesome!

1uzfe%202.jpg


Jeff
 

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Looks like you dont have an EGR system in your engine. So you dont have to delete them. However, you might need EGR plate to block the header.

Delete:
* AC Compressor
* PS Pump

If you dont need the above parts then u can relocate the alternator and u can put in two T3 turbos right on the side of the V where the two above parts are located.
 
lowboost:

Remember that the water pump runs from the timing belt and the oil pump is internally,
so what is left on the fron of the engine?

- Alternator
- Power steering pump
- AC compressor.
- 2 idle pulleys
- 1 tensioner

You'll probably want to retain the alternator, the AC compressor you can do without
unless you need AC. That leaves the power steering pump. Will your car have power steering ?
If you need power steering it should be possible to make a new upper mount for
the alternator and use the alternator to adjust the tension for the belt running from
the crankshaft to the alternator and to the power steering pump, the 2 idle pulleys and
the tensioner have been removed.

If you do not need the power steering pumo, you just have to modify/build a new lower
bracket for the alternator, you need to make it adjustable as you will only need a short belt
from the crankshaft to the alternator and again both idle pulleys and the tensioner have
been removed.
 
Thanks for the input Lex. Everytime you post you say "well you could put two T3's here or there" hahahaha, man on the ball! Personally Im going to do a top mount T04R or T51 Greddy turbocharger. Plans for turbo are shortly after I get the motor wired up and running. But as I said in my main swap post is that part one is adapting the tranny which isnt going to be easy! You guys seem to not have any problems wiring these motors up so I am really worrying about something I dont have time to worry about now. But I wanna delete the parts off it that arent ness to make this thing run.

Thanks,
jeff
 
thanks autronic. I wont need AC, PS, or any other things than the alternator then, Im putting it in a mid engine car. Two reasons Im loosing all those parts, reason one, room! reason two, no need!

Im thinking of moving the Alternator to AC side so I will have room enough for my axle and not have any issues.

jeff
 
Hi Lowboost,

I'm going a step beyond you to even get rid of the water pump and the oil pump.

I will run the original oil pump but it will be mounted into a special engine plate that will also mount the engine to the chassis.

I'm building a Drag Race engine.

Get rid of everything I say!.
Nath
 
I deleted all the pullys and now use the alternator to tension the belt remounted the alternator up one hole and remade the lower bracket

Deleted the thing that looks like a waterpump but isn't and made a fibreglass cover for where it was will do the same for the tensioner pully panel
 
nzsimon
can you please post a pic of the fibreglass cover you made, cos thats what id like to do on mine. as you all, i only have an alternator running off the motor. i was going to do it out of sheet alloy, but fibreglass might look more like an original panel i think.
cheers
 
I will also be doing away with the hydraulic fan drive completly along with the PS & AC. I have retained the use of the original tensioner for the belt.
I was also going to do the alloy fabrication thing to fill the hole left by the hyd fan drive.
I will need to add another idler pully for the supercharger set up.
 
this is what i did. i may have to put another bracket on it though as it hasn't been driven yet, so i dont really know for sure if its going to be strong enough. i am also considering a smaller alternator, also setup the same way as this.

cobber, how are you running the supercharger? with one long belt over everything or a seperate belt? multi-v rib belt or gilmer drive? what type of supercharger?
 
Not going to re invent any wheels, M90, Holden commodore TB run with standard width belt.
 

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On my Cobra projects I had to move a power steering pump with home made bracketry (a Rover 200 pump is nice and small and the Lexus PS pulley can be machined to fit) into the Lexus AC compressor position. The standard PS pump and reservoir totally blocked the steering shaft down to the rack.

I use the standard belt tensioner, but removed its travel stop and now the direction it applies tension is reversed. This enables me to run the alternator in its standard position. I have also removed the cooling fan but kept the pulley.

From the alternator the belt runs upwards underneath the tensioner, over the top idler pulley, down around the PS pulley where the AC compressor used to sit and then over the fan pulley, down to the crank pulley and back to the alternator.

It all seems to work ok and the tension on the belt seems to be adequate.

Cheers,

Tony
 
Fella's hate to bust in on this thread but I really need some help.. what I need is a replacement idler pulley to stand in place of hydaulic fan pump and pulley asap. I noticed on the engine pic's there is a nice replacement pulley that appears to bolt right into the same holes for the hydro pump....any info where I can get one asap would be most appreciated.......My hydo pump overheated and took a big dump today....

Oh and I like what you guys are doing.....good luck...
 
I have removed everything including AC, PS and idlers leaving only the Alternator and the belt tensioner.

I purchased a belt to suit but have found that it slips, it seem's there is just not enuf surface area on the alternator to grip.
At idle it's fine but give it a rev and it squeeels
even at start up it slips for about 5 seconds

The belt I have is 850mm long which makes the tensioner sit half way through it's travel, which should be heap's of tension.
I was thinking maybe my tensioner is bad but didn't want to go buy another to find it's still got the same problem

Has anyone tryed the 850mm belt with no problems?


Here is a picture of what I was running, the red line is the setup that slips
850belt.jpg


Ill draw on
 
I have removed everything including AC, PS and idlers leaving only the Alternator and the belt tensioner.

I purchased a belt to suit but have found that it slips, it seem's there is just not enuf surface area on the alternator to grip.
At idle it's fine but give it a rev and it squeeels
even at start up it slips for about 5 seconds

The belt I have is 850mm long which makes the tensioner sit half way through it's travel, which should be heap's of tension.
I was thinking maybe my tensioner is bad but didn't want to go buy another to find it's still got the same problem

Has anyone tryed the 850mm belt with no problems?


Here is a picture of what I was running, the red line is the setup that slips
850belt.jpg


Ill draw on
 
That appears to be enough grab with your setup....I have seen less grab on some 1uz's belt setups with no problems reported, strange.....You can reduce the size of that very large upper left idler...A change to a very small idler in it's place will create just a little more belt grab in regards to your alternator slippage..
 


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