Lextreme II
Active Member
Anyone have any source of finding this tool. I am looking for something that I can change the valve springs without taking the heads out.
Valve Spring Removal Tool On Engine !
- Thread starter Lextreme II
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Try a magnet on a flex shaft, or one of those "grabbers" on a flexshaft?
David, I sent you a link for one of these the other day.
http://www.ketool.com/keeper/compone...on,com_phpshop
These things, and their homemade derivatives are the bomb. We use them on Supras when changing valve stem seals.
Here's a link to a very good article by my friend PhilP. on changing the seals:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/valve_stem/index.html
He initially made his own keeper remover tool.
The trick of course with doing a spring change or a stem seal change is to keep the valve from dropping once the keepers are off. Some people put a coil of rope in the plug hole then bring the piston up nearly to TDC to keep the valves in place, while others prefer to just pressurise the cylinder with air to hold the valves "up". Personally, I like the rope trick - it's more "sure" than air pressure.
http://www.ketool.com/keeper/compone...on,com_phpshop
These things, and their homemade derivatives are the bomb. We use them on Supras when changing valve stem seals.
Here's a link to a very good article by my friend PhilP. on changing the seals:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/valve_stem/index.html
He initially made his own keeper remover tool.
The trick of course with doing a spring change or a stem seal change is to keep the valve from dropping once the keepers are off. Some people put a coil of rope in the plug hole then bring the piston up nearly to TDC to keep the valves in place, while others prefer to just pressurise the cylinder with air to hold the valves "up". Personally, I like the rope trick - it's more "sure" than air pressure.
Lextreme II
Active Member
From my personal experience. If you plan to do any type of spring changing. Make sure to plug up all of the oil outlet/return with a rag. Falling them off into the engine is a b***h. I drop couple of the head stud nuts and boy let me tell you..... I drop on right into the Right side number 2 cylinder. I think that path will lead to the oil pump. I am not sure how i am going to get it out. Any suggestion?
Try a magnet on a flex shaft, or one of those "grabbers" on a flexshaft?
I've used the air pressure method on a 5MGE. I cut down an old spark plug and silver soldered an extension onto it and plugged it into a 100psi air supply. Works well. Used a socket and knuckle bar connected to the crank and tied this off with some rope so the crank wouldn't turn. Easy peasy.
The 1UZ is a pain because the valve springs are recessed deeply into the heads, and normal OHC valve compressors don't work. Getting the collets off is the pain.
The 1UZ is a pain because the valve springs are recessed deeply into the heads, and normal OHC valve compressors don't work. Getting the collets off is the pain.
ozvenom
New Member
made my own tool.
Hi guys i just recently changed over valve springs and cams on a 1uz . i used air pressure to hold the valve in place with the piston at bottom dead centre because if the socket or spanner slips with a 100 psi pushing on the piston ig goes quick and can do some real damage like broken fingers ect.
To compress the springs i made a tool that bolts to the cam caps bolt holes with a threaded bar each side so that i can do 2 valves at a time i just bolt it down and wind down both retainers until the collect come out then i have to remove the tool to change the springs its a bit fiddley but had no problems with the job.
deffinately put rags in all the oil drains as dopped a collet or 2 . see attached pic for more detail.
regards oz.
Hi guys i just recently changed over valve springs and cams on a 1uz . i used air pressure to hold the valve in place with the piston at bottom dead centre because if the socket or spanner slips with a 100 psi pushing on the piston ig goes quick and can do some real damage like broken fingers ect.
To compress the springs i made a tool that bolts to the cam caps bolt holes with a threaded bar each side so that i can do 2 valves at a time i just bolt it down and wind down both retainers until the collect come out then i have to remove the tool to change the springs its a bit fiddley but had no problems with the job.
deffinately put rags in all the oil drains as dopped a collet or 2 . see attached pic for more detail.
regards oz.
Lextreme II
Active Member
I dropped 3 nuts and 1 washer through the oil drain too. Luckily opening up the oil solve my problem. I need to make something like that....
TundraEddie
New Member
Something like this?
Matco and Snapon sell them,I'm sure it's available somewhere else for a lot less (probably OTC brand)
I like ozvenom's custom tool,2 valvesprings at a time.
Matco and Snapon sell them,I'm sure it's available somewhere else for a lot less (probably OTC brand)
I like ozvenom's custom tool,2 valvesprings at a time.
Lextreme II
Active Member
I removed some springs, retainer and other misc parts for Paul. The good old 14mm long socket with an extension along with a hammer. One strainght hit comes right off. I don't recommend this technique. I found with an socket extension plug up the hole and the locks are caught within the socket. Just make sure you use a towel to plug all the holes and make sure you align straight down. The pressurized cylinder will help.
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