some easy questions

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

clint

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auckland, new zealand
hey guys, did a search but couldnt find anything.......
1990 1uz, all stock toyota...

what grade of engine oil to use?
trans fluid, is dex 3 ok or does it need a special toyota fluid?
and what fuel do they like, 91 or 95?

cheers
 
Gettting on Klmrs ?? I guess any semi synthetic 15 /40 grade or there abouts.. Maybe thinner if you think engine is in good nick..
Alittle cold there now? So I guess you can ??
Mobil 1 for me ...Twin cam motors generally have lower visc ...
 
We use a 15/50 semi synthetic ELF comp GT oil. We find it works very well especially in engine bays where heat may be a problem. We service them every 5000km. Use the highest octane fuel you can. 95 is a minimum but I always go for the 98 option - hurts the pocket a bit but even my wife can notice when her car gets the lower grade fuel. Cheers
 
Lower grade fuel will give less k's per litre as the engine will work harder for a given power output or given road speed.

Whilst it doesn't cover the extra cost it helps.

Interesting thing with PULP is it was 10cents per litre more than normal ULP when fuel was 70cents per litre. Now fuel is $1.70 per litre the same 10cent gap exists so it's getting relativley cheaper as fuel prices rise.
 
I use full sythetic and what grade oil you should use depends really on what kind of climate the car is driven it and how many miles are on the motor itself...

Cold weather or warm weather? Also if the car has good compression the thinner grade oil you can use, which inturn makes the motor work less hard... Bad compression, high miles and worn rings I would suggest thicker grade oils to reduce oil burning and maintain better compression....

I live in warm weather and have 130,000 on my 1uz-fe motor.. I use full sythetic 10/40 now and that's seems to work out just right for my... Years ago 10/30....
 
An older, high mileage car that has been accustomed to a diet of dino oil may start leaking, and burning oil if you switch to a synthetic.

My '94 Supra had been run on 20W-50 Castrol previously, and when I switched to 10W-30 Mobil1 I had puffs of blue smoke out the exhaust in the mornings when I started it. Changed the valve stem seals and all was well again.
 

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Are you that convinced that always running conventional then switching causes problems? Not much justification...

I can possibly see it being similar to some refridgerants. Some have a smaller molecule and leak because of it. THat could be in fact that case that synth is a smaller molecule. Maybe...

Other than that, I see no reason to take that too seriously.
 
Jibby, just cause a car has good comp doesnt mean you use thinner oil. I see where your coming from, but dont say that. It leads to premature engine wear, if someone took what you said for truth.

Run the viscosity recommended.
 
Older synthetic didn't keep seals nice and soft..
Some mineral oils had a rep for that also..
Just change the oil often..
Btw lubricating valve assembly where there's alloy against alloy..
I would use the thinner oil.. Thats the lower visc number..
Seen some engines where buckets grab on there cylinders..
Possibly an oil service issue though or dirty oil..
 
Jibby, just cause a car has good comp doesnt mean you use thinner oil. I see where your coming from, but dont say that. It leads to premature engine wear, if someone took what you said for truth.

Run the viscosity recommended.

Hey Tacoma, I said the combination of things so I disagree with you -Again, it all depends on the climate the car is driven in and the age and condition the motor is in.. Such as if your driving the car in the hot desert or the cold snow? I believe a new motor should use what the dealer recommends, and yes you absolutely right Tacoma with the newer cars with lower miles......However, 10 or 15 years later and 100,000 or 200,000 miles later that same original motor maybe ready for a slight change in oil wieght and grade.. Last I checked this thread is not talking about newer cars only...

This should help prevent further and faster engine wear, oil consumption and help maintain engine compression to some small degree.. An example: just look at all those stop oil burning products that are thick as molasis and lined up on the auto shelves in stores...Oh, and all the auto stores sell them........I am sure you've seen those products and I personally don't like them or use them but that is the extreme to validate my logic....

Too thin of oil on worn rings and the oil will seep though and burn out the exhaust and you will not be saving the life of your motor but be only spending more on adding more oil regularly to your motor.. It all depends my friend..

Too further this conversation, if you are concerned about premature engine wear when using different oil weights - as most know most engine wear occures at start up or when the oil is cold and thick.. As the engine warms up the oil is thinner and flowing and lubricating as normal.. However, they do sell some oil additive products that claim to bond and lubricate better even at start up... Mixed in with your oil it could be a good idea to use some additives on the older motors too...

Oh, and tacoma I would never suggest anyone to use thinner grade oils then what the dealer recommends for that car.. Good compression simply means no need to use thicker oils is what I was really trying to say...


I personally believe and some may disagree but the best combination is full sythetic oil blend with a good additive to go alone with it.. It has worked for my motor running on nos and it still purs and runs like new today... I believe if I only used the dealer recommended oils since I owned this car it may be a slightly different story.. Just my take...
 
I think the jury is still out on wether Dexron trans fluid is OK for the 1uz.
Type IV is the recommended fluid to use. Pull the trans dipstick out and it should say on there which fluid to use.
 
Not sure about 1UZ's yet...
I have found that sticking to a good quality oil, and not trying something new - just to be different, provides a long and healthy engine life.
I generally keep my cars a long time and do long distances overall and get good life out of my engines.
Last car was a 1991 Magna 4 cylinder. When I sold it with 300,000 k's on it, the compression was still within manufacturer's specs, it didn't burn oil at all and was till quiet (these engines usually develop timing chain rattle when they get older - mine didn't). The engine was never opened up - except to replace ONE noisy valve lifter - at 120,000 k's. Total cost $26.
I used Shell Helix only. Changed the oil at 5000 k's (mostly...) and the filter at 10,000 k's.
The transmission was a manual, and I am not a "granny" when I drive.
 
Yep, change your oil on time and the UZ motors will last and last... I've seen them with 300,000 and 400,000 miles and not burn oil too...Although those SC400 and LS400 were owned by responsible people and were dealer serviced regularly...

Let the oil get real dirty and often and it will burn oil eventually...On a personal note - Ride the nitrous and hammer it daily for 5 years and it will start to burn a little oil too regardless of oil changes and what not...... Mine uses one quart of oil every 3000 miles which isn't that bad considering it has 140,000 miles on it and is abused regularly..
 


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