non VVTI bottom with 1uZ VVTI head

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

ur2slow88

New Member
Messages
2
Location
LA,CA
hello everybody im new to forums and was looking for some info. Hoping i can get some help here. i have a 98 ls400 with the 1uzfe-vvti and its about to hit 200,000 and im planning on either going turbo or supercharger, not to sure on that yet. But my question was will i be able to purchase a non vvti 1uzfe and just swap out the bottom end with my vvti bottom end?
 
Why would you?

Is your engine giving trouble?

200,000ml isn't a real lot and it should be fine.

Do some compression/leakdown checks and go from there.
 
No, there is a special oil passage in your VVti block that feeds oil to the heads for the VVTi mechanism to work hydraulically. The early blocks do not have this oil passage, so your VVTi system would not work.

You'll need either a "new" VVTi block, or you'll need to try to figure out how to get oil pressure to your VVTi system. At least one of our members here has looked at trying to run external oil lines to the VVTi heads, and in the end decided to source a VVTi block instead.
 
not yet.. but wanna make sure it doesnt blow on me when i turbocharge it or supercharge it. so if i do that compression/leakdown test it will let me know how good the rods are right? do local shops do that, around how much do they charge? or is there a way i can do it on my own. thanks for the advice.

That sucks then is going to cost alot to get a vvti bottom end. i havent seen nothing less than 1800 for a vvti engine only
 
The VVTi's are coming down. If you're patient and aren't "needing" to change it right away, just watch & wait. Too, you should contact Lextreme as he has local sources there in LA that come up with cheap engines fairly often.
 
Actually this is a very good plan IF and ONLY IF you figure out how to get oil pressure to the VVTi mechanism.

Going this route gets an engine in the $500 range. This is the early engine and it MUST be 1994 or older although possibly some 1995 engines would be good as well but go 1994 or older to be safe.

This gets you the strongest block, crank, rods and pistons. It will also (I believe) lower your compression. All of this is good for turbo/supercharging.

BTW, a compression test is testing cylinder sealing which includes rings and valve seal but tells nothing about the rods.

The oil feed issue is not a simple one but should be doable probably with a remote oil line and some intelligent drill and tap locations.
 


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