Looking to build a V8 powered Supra

[mk4ownu]

my goals are 1000whp on e85 1500 on race gas. im wondering what is the best way to go about this. 1uz block with girdle 2uz crank with carrillo or pauter rods ross pistons ? or 2uz iron block with 4 bolt splayed main caps and girdle ? head work will be pretty standard as i assume i will only have to rev until 8000-9000 rpms to achieve my power goal witht he added displacement. im thinking of twin t67 dual ball bearing turbos or something similar will help me reach my power goals with quick spool. looking for thoughts and suggustions as this will be my first toyota v8 build.

 

[XR8tt]

Imo I would use better pistons..
Twin Gt35R's Newer technology..
Or GT4202 single..
Some CNC heads, turbo's like long stroke motors, so yes bigger crank.. BUT make sure it's as durable as the 1UZ crank..

 

[cribbj]

1000 HP seems to be a lot harder to coax out of the UZ motors than the 2JZ-GTE. AFAIK, no one has hit that figure yet except the hard core racers. In addition to what you've already listed, here's how I'd prepare a motor for high HP, but assuming I'd still want to drive it on the street.

1) Install 2UZ piston squirters. These will help your piston crowns stay intact at high boost and combustion temps.

2) Go with either 12mm or 1/2" ARP head studs

3) Complete ARP package on bottom end

4) Consider oil pump mods if you want to operate up around 8500 to 9500, or disable it completely and go dry sump. No one has run these motors much over 7500, and we don't know how the oil pump will handle that high RPM. I wouldn't trust it though. I'd also look at the water pump for the same reason, and would probably go electric on it.

5) Oversize SS valves & lots of head work (the FE head is not as good as the Supra GTE head)

6) Shim under bucket or shimless bucket conversion

7) Drop compression to 8.75:1 & run M/W injection + race gas.

8) Bottom end prep would be the usual line boring, balancing, and relieving certain areas.

9) Consider pulling a vacuum on the crankcase to reduce pumping losses.

10) Get a better flowing intake manifold. Many of us here believe the stocker chokes the motor pretty significantly at higher RPM and output.

I'm sure I've left things out, but this is a start.

Parts for the UZ's aren't nearly as readily available as for the 2JZ, so get prepared to drop around $15-20K on this, unless you're an engine builder and can do it all yourself, and make some of the special bits.

 

[mk4ownu]

1: ill more then likely be starting with a 2uz for the displacement and iron block.

2: i will upgrade to 1/2" or L19 head studs because they work great depending on how difficult it is to modify the head gaskets for 1/2" studs.

3: Arp hardware i assume will have to be used throughout.

4: i assume oil modifications for increased circulation will be needed.

5: the fe head is not as good as the 2jz head ? have you seen how much air a 2jz flows ? its extremely restrictive. the 2uz head has larger valves larger ports. i believe with work the fe heads will easily outflow the 2jz head.

6: ill be converting to chromemoly buckets for the valves.

7: ill be droping my compression to 9.0:1 with ross or cp pistons with custom coatings.

8: i assume only the best machine work will be needed.

9: crankcase ventilation will be essential i assumed so i will crankcase vent both heads.

10: the stock intake manifold wont fit under the hood of the supra


11: well it cost nearly 20k to build my 2jzgte 3.4L stroker engine so building a v8 with 2 more cylinders and 1.3L more displacement i consider to be a great deal.

 

[cribbj]

You have PM

 

[XR8tt]

What flow numbers do the 2J flow?? From memory the FE heads have around 200 @ .500 lift..
With good CNC work this flow can be much higher...
I just linished the crank for extra clearance..
A larger pulley on water pump would slow it down ??
Though as said electric water pumps are used often now..

 

[suprab808]

I added some questions in red that I have.

1000 HP seems to be a lot harder to coax out of the UZ motors than the 2JZ-GTE. AFAIK, no one has hit that figure yet except the hard core racers. In addition to what you've already listed, here's how I'd prepare a motor for high HP, but assuming I'd still want to drive it on the street.

1) Install 2UZ piston squirters. These will help your piston crowns stay intact at high boost and combustion temps.
What are squirters?? SOrry newb here! Is this on the bottom of the block that squirt oil onto the bottom of the piston and walls of the block?

2) Go with either 12mm or 1/2" ARP head studs
L19 are supposed to be just as good correct? I have always heard by the time you pay someone to rework your block for 1/2" studs it would of just been cheaper to go L19?? Correct me if I am wrong.

3) Complete ARP package on bottom end

4) Consider oil pump mods if you want to operate up around 8500 to 9500, or disable it completely and go dry sump. No one has run these motors much over 7500, and we don't know how the oil pump will handle that high RPM. I wouldn't trust it though. I'd also look at the water pump for the same reason, and would probably go electric on it.

5) Oversize SS valves & lots of head work (the FE head is not as good as the Supra GTE head)

6) Shim under bucket or shimless bucket conversion
Wouldn't you also want to add the Chromoly buckets to withstand a greater beating?

7) Drop compression to 8.75:1 & run M/W injection + race gas.

8) Bottom end prep would be the usual line boring, balancing, and relieving certain areas.

9) Consider pulling a vacuum on the crankcase to reduce pumping losses.

10) Get a better flowing intake manifold. Many of us here believe the stocker chokes the motor pretty significantly at higher RPM and output.

I'm sure I've left things out, but this is a start.

Parts for the UZ's aren't nearly as readily available as for the 2JZ, so get prepared to drop around $15-20K on this, unless you're an engine builder and can do it all yourself, and make some of the special bits.

 

[Zuffen]

Oil squirters/jets see this thread http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4048&highlight=oil+squirters

Going up to 1/2 studs isn't too hard and shouldn't cost much. Modifying the h/gs is pretty straight forward.

We go shim under to stop them spitting out at high lift/rpms. The stock Toyota parts seem to take the "beating" without complanit.

On my engine I stuck with the stock folowers as my engine wont rev over 6,500 and has less then 9mm lift.

 

[suprab808]

Oil squirters/jets see this thread http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4048&highlight=oil+squirters

Going up to 1/2 studs isn't too hard and shouldn't cost much. Modifying the h/gs is pretty straight forward.

We go shim under to stop them spitting out at high lift/rpms. The stock Toyota parts seem to take the "beating" without complanit.

On my engine I stuck with the stock folowers as my engine wont rev over 6,500 and has less then 9mm lift.

Thanks for the link of the oil squirters!! That is what I was thinking. Great article and I think this might be a good investment.

 

[cribbj]

Also, the L19 studs aren't the problem, its the shallow, fine threads in the aluminum block that pull out, due to the extra tightening torque available with the L19 studs.

We've done two blocks now with 1/2" studs, and set them in deeper than OEM, and used a coarser thread than the OEM metric on the bottom. No chance of these puppies pulling out.

As Zuffen pointed out, it's really not that expensive to go 1/2", or if you want to stay metric, 12mm.

 

[suprab808]

Also, the L19 studs aren't the problem, its the shallow, fine threads in the aluminum block that pull out, due to the extra tightening torque available with the L19 studs.

We've done two blocks now with 1/2" studs, and set them in deeper than OEM, and used a coarser thread than the OEM metric on the bottom. No chance of these puppies pulling out.

As Zuffen pointed out, it's really not that expensive to go 1/2", or if you want to stay metric, 12mm.

What about the 2UZ?? Are there any issues with the studs getting pulled out?? Have you fitted any 2UZ with 1/2" studs and made them any deeper? I would presume that if the 1/2" is doable then this would be a better route and a little easier on the pocket book.

Do the L19 and 1/2" studs have the same torque specs? THis is being said the block it capable of holding them in.

 

[Heaven Net]

The engine compartment in the 1985 Celica GT-S is large enough to hold a V8. My first attempts to accomplish this were failures, because I was trying to fit a 90 degree 350 [COLOR=blue ! important][FONT=Georgia,&quot][COLOR=blue ! important][FONT=Georgia,&quot]under [/FONT][COLOR=blue ! important][FONT=Georgia,&quot]the [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=blue ! important][FONT=Georgia,&quot]hood[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR]. The engine was too wide.
I got my hands on a Chrysler 318, which has a narrower block, and to my amazement, it fits. No need to modify the firewall or steering. The bellhousing and transmission fit like they where destined to mate. You can forget heat and air conditioning, but once the transmission to gets past the steering, it sits comfortably.
Most of the electronic components on the Chrysler motor are Nippon-Denso - that is, Toyota. The distributor is even compatible with the Toyota system. Temperature, oil pressure - all these sensors can be connected directly to my gauges in the dash.