Largest known engine bore on a Xuz-fe?

[XR8tt]

The heat is at the top...agree....when I get the block back, I will post some pics...
We will run about 28psi with a GT42R....

What cam and valve springs ??
I can't believe how soft the std springs are!!!
Or is it just me ? Use to pushrod engines..
80 seat and 140 on its nose seems way too light to me !!!
On a boosted motor...
The std can profile must be small...
Turbo ?? I was considering GT4202 or one of Billet turbo's...
http://www.billetturbochargers.com/About_Billet.ews

 

[jibbby]

I could have sworn heat is transferred thru the entire engine block...Try this - Heat the end of a metal spoon and the whole spoon gets hot...See my point???

Just my thinking on cementing the block.. Maybe alluminum doesn't transfer heat like cast iron though....

 

[Fasteddie]

valve springs: probably upgraded supra springs...not sure yet...
cams: we have vvti, so will first tune with the std. cams (Q: are there any aftermarket cams for the 3UZ ???)

About the heat: i have to rely on what the engine "guru" has told me about how to strengthen the 3UZ...I will ask again about heat, but so far I know that the "mean" heat is in the top of the block....

will DEFINITLY post pics now as soon as I have the block back...

We are now chosing the appropriate pistons....
Rods and bolts we already have...

 

[gte]

Filling the block or partially filling it is a very common practice

In regards to your example, the portion of the spoon that is nearest to the flame will be hottest, you could heat the spoon so that one end was too hot to touch, but the other was not.

You can fill a block or partially fill it and still have enough coolant circulating to allow it to be street driven. It's easier to get away with this in Michigan, then Arizona though of course.

I could have sworn heat is transferred thru the entire engine block...Try this - Heat the end of a metal spoon and the whole spoon gets hot...See my point???

Just my thinking on cementing the block.. Maybe alluminum doesn't transfer heat like cast iron though....

 

[XR8tt]

Alloy tranfer's heat ay quicker than iron.
Its a bit like siamesed blocks v seperate bores... It works if radiator is up to power levels...In any case this is mainly done on drag engines where engine strength boundry is tested....

 

[vvillium3]

89mm bore

In the previous image, it seems on that motor there is about .17"-.18" of steel. I don't know if that motor had been bored out already though???
Would and 89mm bore work? That would leave only about .14"-.15" of the sleeve left. That seems to be get pretty thin to me, but I don't know what you can really get away with in this situations. I would think the more the better.
What do you guys think? Anybody have good experience at this???

 

[Lextreme II]

In the previous image, it seems on that motor there is about .17"-.18" of steel. I don't know if that motor had been bored out already though???
Would and 89mm bore work? That would leave only about .14"-.15" of the sleeve left. That seems to be get pretty thin to me, but I don't know what you can really get away with in this situations. I would think the more the better.
What do you guys think? Anybody have good experience at this???

http://www.lextreme.com/3uzblock.html

 

[vvillium3]

I would think the limiting factor is the thickness of the steel, Not the the space between the cylinder bores (unless the block was going to be sleeved). Apperently Toyota think that this .18" steel liner is ideal. My question is, how thin can the steel liner get before running into problems.

 

[jibbby]

When thinking about oversizing an engine one must wonder that the engine was originally designed by the manufacture to perform under the normal engine bore sizes...When over boring you weaken the block considerably, compromise the heating systems in some cases, and your asking that block to perform with a much greater HP output over stock with thinner cylinder walls, etc..

That means increased heat, stress, with less metal or alloy in the engine block to support the increases...Hmmmm?

Maybe just obtaining a bigger manufactured block would be your best bet, for strength, longevity, and safety rather then trying to bore out a smaller block... I personally would be a little weary to do a large engine bore job on any manufactured engine block...

Does that make sense anyone?

Then again when you size the Chevy small blocks, a 283ci SBC has the same block demensions as a 350ci and or 383ci SBC if I am not mistaken...If that is the case you could then bore out the 283ci block to the 383ci block size without structural compromise.. That to me would be the only safe and reasonable engine bore to do... Same theory applies to the Ford blocks... I was thinking the same with the 1uz's like the 4.0l to 4.3l to maybe 4.7l...????

 

[vvillium3]

a 89mm bore isn't grossly overboard. Does Toyota specify how much the block can bored out for rebuilding purposes?? If the block was design to handle a couple rebuilds then 89mm should not be an issue.

 

[jibbby]

Do the engine manufactures consider engine rebuilds?

Good point if that is the case...

 

[XR8tt]

G.M blocks have a higher deck height which is why they can go from smaller capacity to around 400 ci... You cannot bore a 283 out to 350 though...Parts interchange BUT the block cannot be bored that much..
Its the stroke and bore that takes capacity there...
N/a engines have a little less stress on cylinder bore than forced induction... Sleeves may have stronger liners than cast iron bore blocks due to being more cylinder wall specific... Its all conjector I guess until some one does it??? There will be a limit in engineering though with most engines similar like Fords mod motors esp Cobra 4v, SR20's from Nissan and G.M's gen lll, all alloy blocks...